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 Post subject: Plastex
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 11:33 am 
Anyone tried it?<p>I need to rebuild one of those tabs that sticks in the little rubber grommets and just wondering if it lives up to the claims and really works?
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roadkillrobert@yahoo.com


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 Post subject: Re: Plastex
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 12:17 pm 
I just use a WELLER SOLDERING GUNS.<p>I just get some more plastic from other broken faring part and ad some plastic to make the solder stronger.<p>This way, I can even rebluid missing parts.<p>But of corse you have to repaint.<p>What is PLASTEX ?<br>jp
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jean-patrick.lague@tva.ca


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 Post subject: Re: Plastex
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 12:33 pm 
works great!! Give it a try and you'll like it. Seems costly at first glance at the kit. But the cost of having to get your body work done some were else is offset the first time you use it. Have saved many a part with Plastex!! Better than a solder gun or plastic welding & can make paintless repairs if you do everything from the back of part.
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RDRZRGTZR@att.net


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 Post subject: Re: Plastex
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 2:25 pm 
It is this weird plastic beads and fluid you mix and some putty to make molds of parts - it looks like it works slick and can even reproduce tabs, just not sure how strong they are when done, but the video makes it look as good as what was there.<p>You can get it a few places around the web, rg500.com teamraceready.com etc<p>Rob
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roadkillrobert@yahoo.com


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 Post subject: Re: Plastex
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 3:45 pm 
Hi Rob<br>I sell Plaxtex and have used it many times to repair tabs as well as cracked bodywork. Check my website for details: www.teamraceready.com
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teamraceready@yahoo.ca


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 Post subject: Re: Plastex
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 8:07 pm 
I've used it a few times. It is great in that it can rebuild lost pieces. The molding bar thing works really well. The problem for me is that about half the time the new pieces break/break off. It seems like it needs more to tie the new to the old - perhaps the matting stuff they sell, same idea as using the fiber glass cloth. The last couple of times I ended up roughing it all up and putting fiberglass cloth over it to strengthen it.<p>Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I've followed the instructions. But if you think about it, if it is a structual part like a tab or something - to expect it to bond to the original plastic strongly enough, I don't know...<p>Scott
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ssmacdon@hotmail.com


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 Post subject: Re: Plastex
PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 3:27 am 
Hi<p>If you have got some real patience the way to get realy strong repair's is to use MEC - Methyl Ethyl Ketone (i think i got it right) as a solvent and old ABS fairings. This gives a chemical bond nearly as strong as the original material.<p>Briefly , you chop up the old faring into pieces using<br>a coarse file or 1" wood drill then apply the solvent which forms a putty.Make sure you have the pieces to be jointed jigged up well because when you apply the putty it will take approx 3 days for the jointed pieces to chemicaly bond or more particulary the MEK to evaporate.<p>A chemist described the process as like mixing up a paper clip chain (the molecules), when you try to pull<br>them apart they are not as strong as a solid but they<br>bond together to form a tough bond.<p>I have repaired fairings which when painted lools like<br>the original and cost virtually zero in material's and a fair bit in hours however i never bought a RZ for instant gratification.<p> Regards<br> Andrew<p>
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adeans@geelongcity.vic.gov.au


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 Post subject: Re: Plastex
PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 6:06 am 
Cool - I might try this as I have the 2 pieces and plastic welding makes the plastic too brittle, so it usually just breaks again on the tabs. I even have some MEK around as it works good to remove old tank linkers (like Kreem) when you get it where you don't want it (like in the gas cap vent hole!)<p>THanks,<p>Rob
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roadkillrobert@yahoo.com


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Forum locked This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 8 posts ] 

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