My bike began overheating so after checking the most obvious things I decided to pull off the waterpump cover then kicked the bike over. Unfortunately the water pump didnt turn.
After replacing the nut on the drive gear and draining the oil filled with aluminium filings I put it all back together.
I rode around but found the bike would not come down back from 3rd gear.
The mechanic recommended Belray gear saver 80W gear oil.
As I drained the oil I noticed it then allowed me to go back to neutral. I pulled the cover off again to look for any problem with the mechanism but couldnt see anything wrong.
I am ready to use the recommended 10W30 motor oil.
Could the oil be the problem...
From overheating to cant change down the gears
Moderator: rztom
Re: From overheating to cant change down the gears
Hey jbalat - welcome to the forum..!!jbalat wrote:I am ready to use the recommended 10W30 motor oil.
Don't use motor oil in the gearbox. It's not really made for the stresses found in there... especially the shearing action of the gears and the clutch.
Yeah, it'll work OK, but you're better off (and so will the gearbox be) if you use a 2-stroke gear oil like your mechanic said. I prefer Spectro products, but everyone has their particular "flavor" they like. You can't go wrong with any of them, as long as you use ONE of them....
Save the motor oil for your car...
I would seriously consider removing the transmission and making sure it is free of any metal fragments. The gears will survive, but the bearings might not. And there are two bearings that are no longer avilable from Yamaha!!! So replacing them becomes a real bad issue. And metal fragments could toast your oil pump as well.
Steve
Steve
Fuel Injected RZ350
Ok, here is what happened with the 10W30... (Sorry I was 90% there)
Gears worked perfectly around the backstreets. Got onto the freeway and everything seemed fine.
When I got off at the exit and stopped at the lights I was unable to change down back to neutral. Dont know if I was in 2nd or 3rd.
Anyway took off slowly and found a place to park since there was no way the gear lever would move down again. I could only move between 4th and 3rd.
After letting it rest for a while I played around with the lever and got it back to neutral. I rode home in 2nd and 1st without a hassle, neutral also worked ok although sometimes going from 1st to 2nd it would stop by neutral first. I was too scared to try 3rd...
I will drain the oil again so that hopefully it removes the last of any aluminium fragments that may be swimming around.
Besides that I dont think I am ready to start pulling it apart again.
Gears worked perfectly around the backstreets. Got onto the freeway and everything seemed fine.
When I got off at the exit and stopped at the lights I was unable to change down back to neutral. Dont know if I was in 2nd or 3rd.
Anyway took off slowly and found a place to park since there was no way the gear lever would move down again. I could only move between 4th and 3rd.
After letting it rest for a while I played around with the lever and got it back to neutral. I rode home in 2nd and 1st without a hassle, neutral also worked ok although sometimes going from 1st to 2nd it would stop by neutral first. I was too scared to try 3rd...
I will drain the oil again so that hopefully it removes the last of any aluminium fragments that may be swimming around.
Besides that I dont think I am ready to start pulling it apart again.
I'm seeling it with a full tank of Juice. Any takers ?
Seriously, is it worth holding onto these things. Will they ever be worth anything ?
Besides this gear change problem I am also experiencing...
1. Battery keeps going flat (charging issue) This leads to backfiring.
2. Oil leaks
3. Low power output
Seriously, is it worth holding onto these things. Will they ever be worth anything ?
Besides this gear change problem I am also experiencing...
1. Battery keeps going flat (charging issue) This leads to backfiring.
2. Oil leaks
3. Low power output
Yeh, I am in Australia..
I dont anticipate any more than $1500 in its current state and possibly $2500 if everything were fixed. Hardly worth the effort unless you treat it as a hobby.
I have only put about 100kms on it in the past couple of years so I dare say the oil and power loss could come from leaky crank seals. Is there an easy way to check ?
The electrical problem has also caused me much heartache. I have tried another regulator and done all the measurements in the manual but I still cant find anything. Most likely cause could be a short somewhere ?
BTW I think this forum is great. It would be nice to be able to print all the threads out so I can have a read in bed...
I dont anticipate any more than $1500 in its current state and possibly $2500 if everything were fixed. Hardly worth the effort unless you treat it as a hobby.
I have only put about 100kms on it in the past couple of years so I dare say the oil and power loss could come from leaky crank seals. Is there an easy way to check ?
The electrical problem has also caused me much heartache. I have tried another regulator and done all the measurements in the manual but I still cant find anything. Most likely cause could be a short somewhere ?
BTW I think this forum is great. It would be nice to be able to print all the threads out so I can have a read in bed...
If you are serious about selling it, I might be interested if you cant sort your issues out.
Crank seals COULD be a concern, but if your right crank seal was gone it would be blowing alot of white smoke out the right side.
I cant really see crank seals affecting performance too much. It will run lean and you could possibly hole a piston, but you wouldnt notice too much of a performance loss until that happened.
My initial thoughts would be carbs.
Is the battery any good? Do the lights etc work on the bike with a flat battery? The battery is only required for lights etc. It should still run with a flat battery - you can actually buy battery eliminators which consist basically of a large capacity capacitor.
If your lights work after the bike is started, I would suggest your stator is charging ok.
Crank seals COULD be a concern, but if your right crank seal was gone it would be blowing alot of white smoke out the right side.
I cant really see crank seals affecting performance too much. It will run lean and you could possibly hole a piston, but you wouldnt notice too much of a performance loss until that happened.
My initial thoughts would be carbs.
Is the battery any good? Do the lights etc work on the bike with a flat battery? The battery is only required for lights etc. It should still run with a flat battery - you can actually buy battery eliminators which consist basically of a large capacity capacitor.
If your lights work after the bike is started, I would suggest your stator is charging ok.
I am in 2 minds at the moment. I have been looking at a postie bike or a vespa since my friends have all sold their bikes and I would only be using it to go to work and back (you all know how uncomfortable they are). The only reason to keep it would be as a collectors item ?
I have identified a large crack in the top left exhaust pipe just beside the flange. I assume this was causing some back firing, low power and oil spillage (due to incomplete combustion).
I will get this welded up and see what I can do on the gears. I still cant change down from 3rd. Like I said I can use first and 2nd all day. If I go to 3rd, I can use 3rd and 4th no problems...
Has anyone pulled apart the transmission before that can give me any tips ?
P.S. I have tightened up the lower crank nut that holds the water pump drive gear fairly tight. Is this gear supposed to slip (since there is no keyway) if so could this throw out the gear synchronisation ?
I have identified a large crack in the top left exhaust pipe just beside the flange. I assume this was causing some back firing, low power and oil spillage (due to incomplete combustion).
I will get this welded up and see what I can do on the gears. I still cant change down from 3rd. Like I said I can use first and 2nd all day. If I go to 3rd, I can use 3rd and 4th no problems...
Has anyone pulled apart the transmission before that can give me any tips ?
P.S. I have tightened up the lower crank nut that holds the water pump drive gear fairly tight. Is this gear supposed to slip (since there is no keyway) if so could this throw out the gear synchronisation ?
I believe all the gears that have to be timed properly are keyed. It's not supposed to slip.jbalat wrote: P.S. I have tightened up the lower crank nut that holds the water pump drive gear fairly tight. Is this gear supposed to slip (since there is no keyway) if so could this throw out the gear synchronisation ?
Have just payed the rego again ($357) and not touched the bike since my last post.
Gear changing still an issue. I am thinking of running some deisel in the gearbox in a hope to free up any loose particles. I will not be pulling it apart, so I will just hope for the best. Exhaust pipe had a large crack but has been repaired.
'Hybrid' are you still interested in the bike as is ? Dont know what it will cost to get it to Sydney ?
Gear changing still an issue. I am thinking of running some deisel in the gearbox in a hope to free up any loose particles. I will not be pulling it apart, so I will just hope for the best. Exhaust pipe had a large crack but has been repaired.
'Hybrid' are you still interested in the bike as is ? Dont know what it will cost to get it to Sydney ?
