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 Post subject: Zeeltronics and Static Angle
PostPosted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 12:04 am 
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I understand some of the programming on the controller, but what should the base static angle and how do you calculate the compensation.


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 Post subject: Re: Zeeltronics and Static Angle
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 6:08 am 
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You really need to measure the static angle with a degree wheel to be sure. Find absolute TDC then zero your degree wheel there. Turn the engine back until the pickup lines up. Check degree wheel for the angle. It's also known as the trigger angle in other circles.

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 Post subject: Re: Zeeltronics and Static Angle
PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 10:57 am 
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Thank you so very much. Will print one off. I was going to run the stock 47X curve for reliability. I see both that and the 1GE. Is one better than the other. That is top dead on #1 correct?


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 Post subject: Re: Zeeltronics and Static Angle
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 8:38 am 
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If you bought the CDI directly from Borut the programmed static angle is half way correct.
If I remember right it was the same than in the RD350: some 34-35 deg.
But don't nail me down on this value. The last Zeel I did for a 500 is a few years ago ...

The measurement procedure is not that easy as you can't see the mark on the left cover AND the pick up at once.
What I do is to paint own marks at a position like 20 deg BTC of the lower right and upper right piston. Then I program a test-curve of 20 deg advance over the whole rpm range.
Then start the bike and check the 20 deg mark with a strobe. If it matches, the static angle was correct. If not, change it until you have a match.

The compensation avoids wandering of the "real" advance. You can test it right here by revving up the engine. If the mark wanders over changed rpm, change the compensation value until it's stable.
As a counter probe set it to zero and see what happens. If I remember right it should be some 30 microseconds.

After that, program the advance curve that suits the engine and you're done.

In a luxury version I did marks for all cylinders and found that one of cranks didn't have a 180 deg offset between the left/right cylinder ...
(If everything is right, the lower right and upper left will match. If there is a crank offset between front/rear, the marks between the corresponding pistons will have the same offset. If you have a twisted crank, the difference between front/rear mark is different )

Concerning the curves I have recently reworked my German RD500 tuning manual, but it'll take me a while to transfer that to the English version.
In a nutshell: use the 1GE curve and depending what pipes you have, you'll want to rework the upper rev range with more advance.

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 Post subject: Re: Zeeltronics and Static Angle
PostPosted: Sat Feb 27, 2016 5:49 pm 
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Thank you, it now makes sense on the best way to check. I was just scurrilous if the stock mark was right and how you found a true mark. You put in a way that really helps. Mounting controllers today. Again great explanation. :-| :-| :-| :-|


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 Post subject: Re: Zeeltronics and Static Angle
PostPosted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 8:18 am 
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Location: Germany
Here's the mentioned pics.
The 20 deg marks were done by putting the piston to 1.85 mm BTDC with a dial gauge.
(In the stock 350/Banshee 20 deg equals 2 mm BTDC)
Never, never rely on stock markings ! Always measure on your own!

I also attached a basic curve for stock pipes according to a rule of thumb method introduced by Bill Givens.
Unfortunately I haven't done too many curves for the 500, so take it as a starting point.


Attachments:
Welle_H.jpg
Welle_H.jpg [ 99.41 KiB | Viewed 2443 times ]
Zuendkurve.png
Zuendkurve.png [ 48.09 KiB | Viewed 2443 times ]
kolbenstellung.png
kolbenstellung.png [ 48.04 KiB | Viewed 2443 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: Zeeltronics and Static Angle
PostPosted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 12:14 pm 
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Now if I can get the tach to work. Tried the whit and green pickup wire and no tach with the Zeeltronic


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 Post subject: Re: Zeeltronics and Static Angle
PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 2:16 pm 
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I did it exactly that way today . Works perfect!
One simple trick:
Find out the needed offset for the rear bank can be done by flashing the front bank and insert correction value until the rear mark matches. Then delete this value from the front and insert it to the rear field.
This avoids picking the rear cylinder for flashing, when the tank is mounted. Accessing this cable is almost impossible;-)
For my engine , I ended up at -3 degrees.

Another simple thing is to measure the pickup gap. 1. Measure the diameter of the rotor between the two pickup surfaces. Devide by two- that’s no.1 to note.
Then measure the diameter of the stator . These core segments are turned precisely to a fine diameter. Devide by 2 and note. Then measure the gap X between the pickup and the stator . Add this to note 2, this is note3.
The difference of note 3 and note 1 is your gap.

To adjust to 0.5-0.7 just bend carefully the ears of the pickup.
Control by measuring again the gap X and recalculate.

I did it within 15 min. Incl. assembly times of covers.

Be careful not to adjust gap too small <0.5 . The rotor will grow some tenths mm at 11000 revs ;-)

Cheers Olli

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