500 Two-Stroke Tech

Almost 3am. Been searching for an appropriate banjo for the rear caliper. Just want to have a better idea of how to run the brake line on the new arm.



Finally found something appropriate. 90 degree side bend banjo, 30mm from hole center to center of the tube. Available in black chromed steel or stainless.



Next, need to decide on how to connect the line to the arm to maintain a nice run. Haven't searched much yet, but found "Line Locators" on page 19 of Brake Catalog 1 from hphose.com. Couldn't extract a photo from the catalog, but looks pretty good. Will contact them for measurements, and search for other types, as well. Need to weld small brackets on the arm to bolt the Locators.

Just a couple of notes.

When the R6 bush (inside the pivot tube) is cut down to fit the RZV frame, the bearing surfaces are cut down, and much of the bearings would be unsupported. That's why its best to use the RZ parts.

The rear brake line holders (Line Locators) I found are okay, but the mounting bolt is parallel to the arm. I would prefer the bolt to be perpendicular to the arm (no clearance issues). Also thinking the holders would be really nice if they were gold titanium nitride coated. That means stainless or titanium.

The holders are not much more than a tube with a tab, so not difficult to draw or fabricate. They would need to go onto the brake line during fabrication, but should be okay. Would not hold up arm construction. Just need to put simple mounting tabs in the right place. Will add another matching detail to the rest of the bike, and a nice visual pop.

Found all the OEM RZ500 parts, but only one of the two washers.

If I can't find the other washer, I'll have the local machine shop make one.

Thanks for that link, John- I bought that bush.

Okay, so boats.net and partzilla are bullshit.

Parts on the website says "Ships in 1-2 days". Total lie. Means they will check on the availability in 1-2 days. Then you find out after you've paid, when the parts will be available. I was told this by someone who works there, today.

Partzilla listed the dust covers on ebay, 2 available. Also listed the washer, 1 available. After I order, I find out none are available.

I have the bearings and bush coming, maybe we can use other washers and dust covers, since we're making the pivot tube from scratch. Still looking for those parts, though.

Wiped out and was chilling, looking at pics.

Finally came across a headlight I could use. Yes!!!

Tried to see how much.

All sold out. NO!!!

Making inquiries. More soon....

Good news, there will be more headlights, soon.

If I can figure out what dash/gauges to use, will be one step closer to designing the upper triple.

Drawn up a simple mounting tab design for the brake line holders. Need to mock up the footpeg bracket with the rear master cylinder, and the frame mods, before finishing the mounting tab placement. Plenty of time. The tabs can go on last.

Hi Pete I'm using the switch off a yamaha wr450 instead of mounting the RZ ignition switch.
Cheers Ron.

Nice, Ron. Haven't seen that before. Very "fighter."

True, I'll need to deal with the ignition when I design the upper triple.

The problem for me may be the same. When the ignition is in the stock location, it pushes the gauges and headlight away from the handlebars.

On my "Lamb" 350 project, I'm relocating the Ignition switch into the right side panel location. No idea, yet about this bike.

So, let's talk "chop".

The curved supports on the frame need to go. The ID narrows from around 255mm/10in to around 185mm/7.25in so the pipes can fit outside the frame.



The plan is to chop the supports where they're welded at the bottom, and weld in a straight tubing. The top will be welded to the modified upper rails.

Haven't found matching 1 inch square aluminum tubing, yet. This looks close, but was sold out, or NLA. The radius might be too big, not sure yet.



Trying to keep things as simple as possible. Will probably cut the upper rails before the cross support where the tubings bend. Could make an insert, and weld on more straight tubing.



Should open up the I.D. of the upper rails enough for straight pipes. Could re-use the same mounts on the ends of the tubing, or not. Will need more specific size info on the pipes, but I have a general idea.



The straight support tubing will move outboard slightly, but would be welded at the same angle as the previous curved support.

Not worried about losing that cross brace. Will need a new one that will clear the pipes and raise the seat.

Just saying....

The main frame looks unmodified.





And, are those crossover pipes in the front??? Must be made in Japan.

Wish I could see where the YPVS motor is located.

My braced swing arm required the frame chop on the right side only. Not sure about the R6 swing arm though.

Jeff B wrote:My braced swing arm required the frame chop on the right side only. Not sure about the R6 swing arm though.

Interesting. Would love to see pics of your frame chop.

The frame does not need to be chopped to use the R6 arm, just minor modifications, like moving the YPVS motor, and maybe removing a small bracket.

I would be chopping to fit straight pipes. Even if straight pipes would fit without chopping, I may want to get rid of the curved support tubes. They look kind of weird without the pipes on the outside. We'll see.

Looking at the shape of those straight upper pipes I posted.

Not sure that an R6 sized swingarm would work. Upper brace might hit those pipes.

Trying to get more info.

I sent an email to the company in Japan that made those pipes.

Just curious if they have a jig. I'm guessing they're fabricated on each bike.

Asked if they need my bike to make pipes, or not.

Contacted another company in Japan recently about titanium anodizing. No reply at all.

We'll see.

Still haven't found the 2 OEM swingarm washers anywhere. New ones should be available mid May from Yamaha.

If I could just get the measurements, I would make them out of titanium.