RD350B sitting for 20 years precautions before starting?

[patastinky]

Hi Guys! Just joined the forum about a week ago. My father-in-law and I scored this 1975 RD350B and would like to see it running again. It's been sitting in a garage untouched since 1982. Asides from replacing the battery, checking spark plugs & flushing the fluids. Is there anything else we should check or inspect?? 12,906 Miles on the bike. Thanks in advance.

[silverstrom]

You need to strip the engine. Crank seals definitely need replacing and I'd be very surprised if the crank bearings weren't rusted.

Once you split the cases and open the engine be prepared to do a full rebuild. 2 strokes don't do well in storage. At least one exhaust port is always opened and that allows cold damp air to enter the engine. That means lots of corrosion including the crank, all bearings, rings, etc. Not looking after the engine now means it will likely eat itself not long after you get the bike running. There is only one way to return a long term storage bike to service and it is both costly and labour intensive.

[hondaror]

Aside from getting it running, there are things like master cylinder rebuilds, and caliper rebuilds in your very near future. Like John has said, much time and $$$.
Looks really good for an old cow. It's all there.

[patastinky]

Aside from getting it running, there are things like master cylinder rebuilds, and caliper rebuilds in your very near future. Like John has said, much time and $$$.
Looks really good for an old cow. It's all there.

Hi Hondaror.. Right, i plan on doing all that once i know she starts and engine is in good shape. I'd like to have her road ready as soon as possible, i just hope that it's not going to be too expensive to do all these things.

You need to strip the engine. Crank seals definitely need replacing and I'd be very surprised if the crank bearings weren't rusted.

Once you split the cases and open the engine be prepared to do a full rebuild. 2 strokes don't do well in storage. At least one exhaust port is always opened and that allows cold damp air to enter the engine. That means lots of corrosion including the crank, all bearings, rings, etc. Not looking after the engine now means it will likely eat itself not long after you get the bike running. There is only one way to return a long term storage bike to service and it is both costly and labour intensive.

Thanks Silverstrom for replying to my post. I guess i have no choice, but to open her up and see what's going on internally.

[silverstrom]

If the plan is to keep the bike long term a full restoration is always the best way to go. I've opened engines after 5 years of storage and found cranks that were totally destroyed by corrosion. You may open that one and find it's in good shape and just needs seals.

As Rory noted, you'll need to rebuild the brakes and master cylinders as well. Then there's wheel bearings, steering head bearings, electrics, etc.

It can and will get expensive. Generally, you'll put far more into it than it will be worth once you're done. if you consider it a labour of love it will be time and money well spent. If you look at it from a purely financial standpoint you're better off to find a better bike.

Expect the worst and hope for the best is what many of us go by.

Where are you located??

[pushstartrearset]

Lots of elbow grease! X your fingers and pray you make it through the summer. <--As I know most will ignore the information to rebuild the motor. The Aircooled bikes are especially prone to "blowing" up after long periods of sitting and deteriorating. That bike looks like it has been sitting outside. I'd be wondering what the crank bearings look like inside the motor.

I've been impressed w/ the RZ, it can take some abuse and keep going <--the case w/ both our RZ350s. A/C, I've not been so lucky..crank and top end failures.

as is always the case w/ aircooled motors, the previous owner rides the bike just up until it is about to blow up and passes it on to another sucker (me/you). <--been my personal experience and I'm sure MANY others (ahaha). Yours looks a little worse than most, so I would be more concerned.

P.S. - fork tubes are toast. you have no choice to buy a new pair . Forking by frank has them. Rear shocks: progressive are good, but you can get by w/ cheap redwing shocks.

[T.RexRacing]

From what I can see everything needs attention. Sorry.

[steveloomis]

You will find very sound advice here. I always shudder when I read a post like yours as you do not have the experience that the "collective" here has. Once your crank is out, you can peer thru the oil slit and see the condition of the needle bearings. If any sign of rust or looseness a full crank rebuild is in order, NO QUESTION as that is the heart of the engine. There are so many things to check in addition but mainly the crank bearing and new crank seals and most likely every seal and gasket on the engine. Oil pump can be clogged or partially blocked as well as it pumps the life blood.... Carbs are another and a simple spray cleaner will not suffice. Detailed disassembly and passageway cleaning will be required.

Not trying to scare you away, just open your eyes. If you are on a tight budget, it is cheaper to buy a ready to ride 4 stroke bike. I am rebuilding a 4 stroke that has been sitting 25 years, other than seals and gaskets the main problem was pitted valves and valve seats. Easily fixed by a competent shop.

Steve

Many here are at your beck and call for any assistance, just ask....

[patastinky]

If the plan is to keep the bike long term a full restoration is always the best way to go. I've opened engines after 5 years of storage and found cranks that were totally destroyed by corrosion. You may open that one and find it's in good shape and just needs seals.

As Rory noted, you'll need to rebuild the brakes and master cylinders as well. Then there's wheel bearings, steering head bearings, electrics, etc.

It can and will get expensive. Generally, you'll put far more into it than it will be worth once you're done. if you consider it a labour of love it will be time and money well spent. If you look at it from a purely financial standpoint you're better off to find a better bike.

Expect the worst and hope for the best is what many of us go by.

Where are you located??

I am located in Bergen County NJ (USA). I really appreciate your advise and thanks for replying to my post. My father-in-law knows the owner who sold him the bike. He only drove it to work back in the late 70's and stopped driving it around 82'. Other than not starting it for 22+ years or driving it this bike hasn't seen any rain (he didn't ride in the rain). At any rate I am alright with taking my time and tackling this project. I have spent the entire day reading up on this bike and I am hooked. I love it! Tomorrow i am going to research local bike shops that might be able to take a look at her and give me an est. for work, just incase pulling the engine and rebuilding it on my own ends up being to much of a task. I have some mechanical experience with cars, engine swaps and auto>manual swaps, but i've never opened up an engine before.

Lots of elbow grease! X your fingers and pray you make it through the summer. <--As I know most will ignore the information to rebuild the motor. The Aircooled bikes are especially prone to "blowing" up after long periods of sitting and deteriorating. That bike looks like it has been sitting outside. I'd be wondering what the crank bearings look like inside the motor.

I've been impressed w/ the RZ, it can take some abuse and keep going <--the case w/ both our RZ350s. A/C, I've not been so lucky..crank and top end failures.

as is always the case w/ aircooled motors, the previous owner rides the bike just up until it is about to blow up and passes it on to another sucker (me/you). <--been my personal experience and I'm sure MANY others (ahaha). Yours looks a little worse than most, so I would be more concerned.

P.S. - fork tubes are toast. you have no choice to buy a new pair . Forking by frank has them. Rear shocks: progressive are good, but you can get by w/ cheap redwing shocks.

Elbow grease, yep, without a doubt! Are the fork tubes shot because of the rust on them? Is it safe to say that any bike with rust (no matter how little) the forks would need replacing? The more feedback i get on the bike, the more I'm preparing myself for a complete restoration. We don't want to work on it and sell, we want to ride it and keep it for as long as it can ride. I also intend to become more familiar with the bike and it's heritage so that I can repair any future issues myself. This will be my first bike; do you think it's a good starter?

You will find very sound advice here. I always shudder when I read a post like yours as you do not have the experience that the "collective" here has. Once your crank is out, you can peer thru the oil slit and see the condition of the needle bearings. If any sign of rust or looseness a full crank rebuild is in order, NO QUESTION as that is the heart of the engine. There are so many things to check in addition but mainly the crank bearing and new crank seals and most likely every seal and gasket on the engine. Oil pump can be clogged or partially blocked as well as it pumps the life blood.... Carbs are another and a simple spray cleaner will not suffice. Detailed disassembly and passageway cleaning will be required.

Not trying to scare you away, just open your eyes. If you are on a tight budget, it is cheaper to buy a ready to ride 4 stroke bike. I am rebuilding a 4 stroke that has been sitting 25 years, other than seals and gaskets the main problem was pitted valves and valve seats. Easily fixed by a competent shop.

Steve

Many here are at your beck and call for any assistance, just ask....

Hi Steve... yeah it looks like a full teardown is in order. I believe i came to the right place [here]. I searched for a while for a forum that i could register too. Maybe ill pick up a 4 stroke bike in the meantime, as i mentioned before this is my first bike. Any recommendations?

[silverstrom]

Maybe ill pick up a 4 stroke bike in the meantime. Any recommendations?

Yes, but I'm biased

[patastinky]

Maybe ill pick up a 4 stroke bike in the meantime. Any recommendations?

Yes, but I'm biased

Oh. That's nice!!

[JonW]

[quote="silverstrom"
Expect the worst and hope for the best is what many of us go by.[/quote]

Aint that the truth!

I would say tho that a lot of what you have there will clean up and it looks quite complete, so its not all doom n gloom. If you repair and repaint stuff you will save money, but the engine will need parts, and that costs of course...

Anyway, rip into her I say... enjoy!

[T.RexRacing]

You could always go upscale on the four stroke.

[Amboyy]

I would assess things and treat each section as it's own entity. Nothing worse than tearing a bike, car, train, or plane down and then have it sit for changes in destiny, lack of funds, delays in acquiring parts, ad infinitum.

The battery and electrical connections looked surprisingly good given the attack that humidity made on the exterior surfaces. Even they don't appear that bad at all. I suspect that the rust on the bars and fuzz on the shocks, and forks will largely come off with a fingernail scrape.

Crank seals bad? Perhaps, but the engine isn't going to seize and lock-up on a start-up as a result.

I would recommend ordering a petcock rebuild kit, replace all rubber hoses and clear lines, rebuilt kit for the front caliper and master cylinder, order an ignition kit and a gasket set for the carbs. Take one apart at a time leaving the other for reference. Look at the floats and see that they are intact ( they may take on fuel anyway but if they aren't chipped or cracked, try 'em ), and float needle and seat.

There will be more, including plugs, sidecover gasket(s) and possibly rubber carb inlets.

Now, with a carb, inlet and inlet reed assembly removed from either cylinder, and with a good flashlight and dental inspection mirror, you should just be able to see the lower rod bearing with the piston fully extended up in the
cylinder. If you see rust , that's not good. If you don't, that is good. reassemble and repeat with the other side.

If this is of interest, more later.

Steve

[Amboyy]

I see there are plenty of resources and advice on another forum that will help guide and says what I was going to.

Bottom line, it may require some of the more invasive approaches to getting it up and reliable, but, investigating first, before disassembly, keeps the interest level up and doesn't allow the project to be overwhelming. All the suggestions are valid, it's simply a matter of picking and choosing the personal course that best suits you and will result in the greatest potential that this bike will attain some of it's original glory.

Good luck.

Steve