8 plate clutch machining mods

[(F5)]

8 pages would be 4 more than the pdf has ....

Sorry I meant on the website the Englishmanual only seems to have, well iit kind of jumps and there's only 8 pages and page 99 clutch isn't one of them?

[MK]

If you refer to the samples of my tuning manual, you need to know that it's a collection of different pages meant as samples on what you get.
Usually people buy the manual to get the full content
(As a defense I can say that no one ever complained of being ripped off)

[(F5)]

That's cool cheers.

[(F5)]

Google translate got me the rest of the way. Looks like a good manual. There's not much 350 left in mine but would have been keen back when Ihad a lightly tuned one.

Still going to search mate's stock, but Ihave a path if that fails to throw up a decent crossover.thanks for all your help.

I am a little concerned about taking offthe very thin inner basket plate surface , but if its been done and lasted then maybe I just follow that way.

[(F5)]

For whatever reason mine measures up slightly different. If I take the basket to inner washer out there is a 1.2mm gap from the bottom of the fingers to the first plate. But with the washer it is 2.2mm. The basket is sloppy without the washer so the splines are stopping the basket move back.

What I think I would do is recess the washer in 2mm from std and skim 1mm from the back of the inner to promote oil flow but leave the plate surface alone. This seems to give the plates enough even with clutch pulled. Mine only pulls 1.8mm as lever slightly longer on engine (increasing leverage but reducing throw).

This reduces engagement of basket to pressure plate but there should still be enough. I'll remeasure that bit though.

[MK]

Yes, there's individual tolerances in each engine that can yield to slightly different dimensions.

[(F5)]

Initial trial fit is encouraging. I need some more time to confirm. Am happy with plates to basket. Inner to pressure plate I need to confirm.

I did find Imeasured the wrong spring. The springs iIhad in were gold coloured and iImixed them up with some thicker longer YZF SP ones I had left over. The actual ones fitted are the same length and roughly diameter wire as std. They have less active coils which should make them stiffer.
But in the vice they compress the same amount back to back with a std one.
The advantage is that in my setup the std ones coilbind. These do not so you get more preloaded Useful in a clutch..

[(F5)]

OK well we're done. I thought of taking some pics now its together but it looks just like Martins. I had to file the bottom of the fingers of the basket to get the first plate in (with rounded edge and bevel on plates like Martins).

My recipe is machine the inner so the thrust washer surface is -2mm ie.goes from 1mm out to 1mm in. Take a mm off the outer edge outside that just to help clearance for oil.

Then 2.8 off pressure plate stepped.

The pressure plate just comes even with the edge of the inner but it is bevelled so there is still 1.8mm of engagement when clutch pulled. Friction plate comes 1\2 way out of basket fingers at worst. You'll have to check your own machine.

I added 8mm to my leverarm on the engine. This helps reduce throw and makes the clutch lighter to pull. Which is good as I essentially have about 1.2mm more preloaded springs.

Hopefully this will sort my clutchslip out, run out of time for dyno this week I think.

A big thanks and a virtual Pilsner to Slinger and MK.

[slinger]

Hope it works out......I personally never had any problems after converting to 8 plates.

[MK]

Well I'm open to bribery: https://www.paypal.me/MartinKieltsch" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Glad it helped - that's why I published it.

[(F5)]

OK, that should buy you a non virtual beer.

[MK]

Thanks mate.
Very much appreciated.

[(F5)]

Sheesh, made it to the dyno but we were running a SVX550 Apr first. The rain got so bad for so long decided to bug out in case we got flooded. So I still don't know if it cured things.

[(F5)]

Golly what a delay. Finally got on the dyno for a short while. After tying it down better it pulled and didn't let go. Could do a run without it spinning off and losing grip both in rear wheel and clutch.

Still fighting a hole in power. Pulled the fuse out of ypvs for a test and it filled a bunch. Have to sort that with new controller driver. Pulled off the airbox which also helped but ran out of small jets to see if it was just mixture. Running small 35mm carbs as this is a roadbike and only pulling 9500 odd peak, ran 98hp though which is getting on ok on a conservative dyno.

[MK]

If it doesn't already include the PV controller: get a Zeeltronic PPV.
It's fully programmable and it's what you need for your application.