1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

General forum on engines, transmissions, gearing and modifications to each

Moderator: rztom

Post Reply
Message
Author
Sitnlow4life
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:45 pm
Location: Detroit

1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#1 Post by Sitnlow4life » Sun Jul 09, 2017 11:23 am

Just installed my Toomey pipes

Have more pictures and videos of before and after here

https://goo.gl/photos/WBfcWGFqMNf29Q767" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds

Sitnlow4life
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:45 pm
Location: Detroit

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#2 Post by Sitnlow4life » Sun Jul 09, 2017 11:26 am

Also wanted to see if anyone had jetting recommendations for a F2 bike with power jet carbs ?

Stock is 185 main and a 27.5 pilot

5L20 needle and 2nd position from the top for the clip

The kit came with the toomey 2 into 1 airbox , I heard mixed reviews about installing it versus keeping the stock airbox on this bike .

I am also installing vforce 4 reeds .

Thanks as always
Last edited by Sitnlow4life on Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds

hondaror
Posts: 2828
Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:44 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#3 Post by hondaror » Sun Jul 09, 2017 12:16 pm

You should be close to good right now, if everything was left stock. Buy some dyno time. That will confirm things.
Be sure to take the air box intake snorkel out.
Rory
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine

Sitnlow4life
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:45 pm
Location: Detroit

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#4 Post by Sitnlow4life » Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:43 pm

Went for a 5 mile ride today with brand new plugs .
Stock airbox and stock reeds still

Bike is way lean .....

Going to start out with a 200 main and go from there .

I will install the reeds and airbox while I am in there
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds

silverstrom
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 7030
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:20 am

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#5 Post by silverstrom » Sun Jul 09, 2017 8:34 pm

Assuming it is a stock built motor with VForce reeds; remove the airbox snorkel and partition. Use a clean dry filter. Drill many holes in the airbox lid. 230 mains, 27.5 pilots. Needle in stock 2nd clip position. Throttle stops should be around 2 3/4 turns for a higher than normal idle. Closer to 1500 is better than the stock 1250. Air screws at 1 1/2 turns. That should get you close to where you need to be. 220 mains is likely where you'll end up, but start at 230 and go down one size and plug chop. Altitude and ambient temperature are variables.

You absolutely must ensure the carbs are synced. That is the last step after adjusting the throttle free play and oil pump. If the sync is wrong the bike will never run right. The best way to sync carbs is to remove the airbox lid and watch the slides with a mirror as you adjust them. No stupid popsicle sticks, straws, or other nonsense.

You said in your 'won't rev past 6k" thread that you are using 89 Octane gas. 89 is too low. You MUST USE premium fuel. 91 octane or higher if you want to avoid problems.

User avatar
two-stroke-brit
-----
-----
Posts: 1701
Joined: Fri Nov 22, 2013 10:49 pm
Location: Houston texas

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#6 Post by two-stroke-brit » Mon Jul 10, 2017 1:38 pm

silverstrom wrote: You absolutely must ensure the carbs are synced. That is the last step after adjusting the throttle free play and oil pump. If the sync is wrong the bike will never run right. The best way to sync carbs is to remove the airbox lid and watch the slides with a mirror as you adjust them. .
i never thought of doing it that way. :smt038 :smt023
simple is almost always best
thanks mark
350LC,Athena 392 big bore,stock porting,swiss cheese air box,stock reeds,spec11 pipes.(now TSA big bore pipes)
She might not be pretty but she will always be a fun ride


1982 YAMA RD350LC
98KDX 220R
1967 TRIUMPH TIGER
2001 TRIUMPH TT600

User avatar
Redline Junkie
-----
-----
Posts: 624
Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2012 12:55 pm
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#7 Post by Redline Junkie » Mon Jul 10, 2017 4:36 pm

John,

the second position for the needle clip is counted from the top of the needle right?

Rob
1985 RZ350F being restored now!
1987 RZ350 Stock
1985 RZ350F basket case
1985 RZ500 Stock

silverstrom
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 7030
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:20 am

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#8 Post by silverstrom » Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:09 pm

Redline Junkie wrote:John,

the second position for the needle clip is counted from the top of the needle right?

Rob
Yes, that's right Rob. Always from the top.

Sitnlow4life
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:45 pm
Location: Detroit

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#9 Post by Sitnlow4life » Mon Jul 10, 2017 9:51 pm

silverstrom wrote:Assuming it is a stock built motor with VForce reeds; remove the airbox snorkel and partition. Use a clean dry filter. Drill many holes in the airbox lid. 230 mains, 27.5 pilots. Needle in stock 2nd clip position. Throttle stops should be around 2 3/4 turns for a higher than normal idle. Closer to 1500 is better than the stock 1250. Air screws at 1 1/2 turns. That should get you close to where you need to be. 220 mains is likely where you'll end up, but start at 230 and go down one size and plug chop. Altitude and ambient temperature are variables.

You absolutely must ensure the carbs are synced. That is the last step after adjusting the throttle free play and oil pump. If the sync is wrong the bike will never run right. The best way to sync carbs is to remove the airbox lid and watch the slides with a mirror as you adjust them. No stupid popsicle sticks, straws, or other nonsense.

You said in your 'won't rev past 6k" thread that you are using 89 Octane gas. 89 is too low. You MUST USE premium fuel. 91 octane or higher if you want to avoid problems.
The needle is currently in that position . I made sure the carbs were synced by looking threw the windows in the carbs .

I installed the 200 Main yesterday and went for a 5 mile ride .

The bike rips and feels great , but plug chop says it is still a bit lean.

I have the idle set for a hair above 1000 RPM . So I will increase that today ( what does that help with? )

When you said the air screws should be at 1.5 turns ... that is 1.5 turns out from fully closed correct?

For fuel I have been running 91 Octane Recreation Fuel (No Ethanol) for the past month or so.

What is your opinion on the Toomey 2 into 1 air box with foam filter should I run it ?

I really dont want to cut up my stock airbox , i dont mind removing the snorkel because that can be reversed later .

Thanks again for all the information , it is greatly appreciated

Todd
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds

silverstrom
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 7030
Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:20 am

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#10 Post by silverstrom » Mon Jul 10, 2017 11:04 pm

Using the windows is a bad idea. They won't get you anywhere near correct for the sync. The slides need to start opening at the same time and reach full open at the same time. Those useless windows will just about tell you full open, but even then just vaguely.

The bike's tachometer reads erratically at the best of times. The book says idle speed is to be set at 1200 +/- 50 RPM. If you set idle speed at 1250 using the bike's tachometer and not a tachometer attached to a spark plug lead I can guarantee you it is not 1250. If your idle speed is low it can affect off idle performance. A higher idle speed makes transitioning easier.

All carb adjustments are set from fully in and then turned out. Left and right do not necessarily line up exactly. The screws from one side to the other can, and often do, start from different set points. Do not overtighten the screws when turning them in. If you damage the seats the carbs are permanently damaged and the screws become useless.

The 2 into 1 is just a headache. Avoid it.

I can appreciate not wanting to drill the airbox lid. You can also run without the lid to see how it performs. If you like the results, then make a decision or get another lid to modify.

Tuning with PJ carbs can be difficult. I've been doing it for years with stock bikes and modified bikes. What I say here comes from lessons learned the hard way. Only you can decide what is right for you. I would suggest you start by getting a proper 1986-90 RZ350 Yamaha manual for your bike. The fact that you set your idle speed to 1000 RPM suggests you aren't following instructions.

Do you understand what a plug chop entails? If not, find out. Not getting it right will get expensive.

hondaror
Posts: 2828
Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:44 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#11 Post by hondaror » Mon Jul 10, 2017 11:19 pm

The best way to sync carbs is with a unisyn. Vacuum does not lie. You want the same vacuum on both carbs. You can pick up a unisyn on eBay. They are delivered, under $100. Makes a world of difference on your tuning. Ask me if I raced.
Rory
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine

Sitnlow4life
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:45 pm
Location: Detroit

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#12 Post by Sitnlow4life » Tue Jul 11, 2017 12:52 am

silverstrom wrote:Using the windows is a bad idea. They won't get you anywhere near correct for the sync. The slides need to start opening at the same time and reach full open at the same time. Those useless windows will just about tell you full open, but even then just vaguely.

The bike's tachometer reads erratically at the best of times. The book says idle speed is to be set at 1200 +/- 50 RPM. If you set idle speed at 1250 using the bike's tachometer and not a tachometer attached to a spark plug lead I can guarantee you it is not 1250. If your idle speed is low it can affect off idle performance. A higher idle speed makes transitioning easier.

All carb adjustments are set from fully in and then turned out. Left and right do not necessarily line up exactly. The screws from one side to the other can, and often do, start from different set points. Do not overtighten the screws when turning them in. If you damage the seats the carbs are permanently damaged and the screws become useless.

The 2 into 1 is just a headache. Avoid it.

I can appreciate not wanting to drill the airbox lid. You can also run without the lid to see how it performs. If you like the results, then make a decision or get another lid to modify.

Tuning with PJ carbs can be difficult. I've been doing it for years with stock bikes and modified bikes. What I say here comes from lessons learned the hard way. Only you can decide what is right for you. I would suggest you start by getting a proper 1986-90 RZ350 Yamaha manual for your bike. The fact that you set your idle speed to 1000 RPM suggests you aren't following instructions.

Do you understand what a plug chop entails? If not, find out. Not getting it right will get expensive.
Thank you for the information

I know what a plug chop is and that is what I was performing to verify that the bike is too lean at this point .

I have a Haynes for rz350 but 90% of it pertains to the 84-85 American bikes .

I will for a more specific manual .

I will also verify my idle speed with my timing light and verify proper carb sync as well .

As always I appreciate all the information
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds

Sitnlow4life
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:45 pm
Location: Detroit

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#13 Post by Sitnlow4life » Tue Jul 11, 2017 11:04 pm

Installed 220 Main jets and adjusted the air screws to 1.5 turns out as suggested above .

Also set my idle to 1500 with my timing light

Modified airbox as well

Pics are here

https://goo.gl/photos/NX5zBuSuWs1ZqjzJ8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

What did you mean when you said remove partition?

I removed the snorkel , the uni filter is only a month old , should I run both pieces of it ?

It is a dual density foam material .

Also what should I do about the hole in the lid from the snorkel ?

Leave it there or plug it ?

Thanks again
Todd
Last edited by Sitnlow4life on Wed Jul 12, 2017 11:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds

hondaror
Posts: 2828
Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:44 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#14 Post by hondaror » Wed Jul 12, 2017 1:13 am

I removed the snorkel and left the box stock.
Rory
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine

Sitnlow4life
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:45 pm
Location: Detroit

Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install

#15 Post by Sitnlow4life » Wed Jul 12, 2017 11:04 pm

Got a chance to ride the bike today ....

Bike seems to be a bit boggy and has some flat spots now .

It was definitely more crisp before I made any of the changes yesterday.

I pulled the plugs and they are still quite white to me , not much coloring at all .

Should I proceed to a 230 main jet now ?
Thanks again
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds

Post Reply