1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
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1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
Just installed my Toomey pipes
Have more pictures and videos of before and after here
https://goo.gl/photos/WBfcWGFqMNf29Q767" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Have more pictures and videos of before and after here
https://goo.gl/photos/WBfcWGFqMNf29Q767" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds
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Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
Also wanted to see if anyone had jetting recommendations for a F2 bike with power jet carbs ?
Stock is 185 main and a 27.5 pilot
5L20 needle and 2nd position from the top for the clip
The kit came with the toomey 2 into 1 airbox , I heard mixed reviews about installing it versus keeping the stock airbox on this bike .
I am also installing vforce 4 reeds .
Thanks as always
Stock is 185 main and a 27.5 pilot
5L20 needle and 2nd position from the top for the clip
The kit came with the toomey 2 into 1 airbox , I heard mixed reviews about installing it versus keeping the stock airbox on this bike .
I am also installing vforce 4 reeds .
Thanks as always
Last edited by Sitnlow4life on Sun Jul 09, 2017 5:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds
Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
You should be close to good right now, if everything was left stock. Buy some dyno time. That will confirm things.
Be sure to take the air box intake snorkel out.
Be sure to take the air box intake snorkel out.
Rory
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine
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- Posts: 60
- Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:45 pm
- Location: Detroit
Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
Went for a 5 mile ride today with brand new plugs .
Stock airbox and stock reeds still
Bike is way lean .....
Going to start out with a 200 main and go from there .
I will install the reeds and airbox while I am in there
Stock airbox and stock reeds still
Bike is way lean .....
Going to start out with a 200 main and go from there .
I will install the reeds and airbox while I am in there
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds
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Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
Assuming it is a stock built motor with VForce reeds; remove the airbox snorkel and partition. Use a clean dry filter. Drill many holes in the airbox lid. 230 mains, 27.5 pilots. Needle in stock 2nd clip position. Throttle stops should be around 2 3/4 turns for a higher than normal idle. Closer to 1500 is better than the stock 1250. Air screws at 1 1/2 turns. That should get you close to where you need to be. 220 mains is likely where you'll end up, but start at 230 and go down one size and plug chop. Altitude and ambient temperature are variables.
You absolutely must ensure the carbs are synced. That is the last step after adjusting the throttle free play and oil pump. If the sync is wrong the bike will never run right. The best way to sync carbs is to remove the airbox lid and watch the slides with a mirror as you adjust them. No stupid popsicle sticks, straws, or other nonsense.
You said in your 'won't rev past 6k" thread that you are using 89 Octane gas. 89 is too low. You MUST USE premium fuel. 91 octane or higher if you want to avoid problems.
You absolutely must ensure the carbs are synced. That is the last step after adjusting the throttle free play and oil pump. If the sync is wrong the bike will never run right. The best way to sync carbs is to remove the airbox lid and watch the slides with a mirror as you adjust them. No stupid popsicle sticks, straws, or other nonsense.
You said in your 'won't rev past 6k" thread that you are using 89 Octane gas. 89 is too low. You MUST USE premium fuel. 91 octane or higher if you want to avoid problems.
- two-stroke-brit
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Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
i never thought of doing it that way.silverstrom wrote: You absolutely must ensure the carbs are synced. That is the last step after adjusting the throttle free play and oil pump. If the sync is wrong the bike will never run right. The best way to sync carbs is to remove the airbox lid and watch the slides with a mirror as you adjust them. .
simple is almost always best
thanks mark
350LC,Athena 392 big bore,stock porting,swiss cheese air box,stock reeds,spec11 pipes.(now TSA big bore pipes)
She might not be pretty but she will always be a fun ride
1982 YAMA RD350LC
98KDX 220R
1967 TRIUMPH TIGER
2001 TRIUMPH TT600
She might not be pretty but she will always be a fun ride
1982 YAMA RD350LC
98KDX 220R
1967 TRIUMPH TIGER
2001 TRIUMPH TT600
- Redline Junkie
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Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
John,
the second position for the needle clip is counted from the top of the needle right?
Rob
the second position for the needle clip is counted from the top of the needle right?
Rob
1985 RZ350F being restored now!
1987 RZ350 Stock
1985 RZ350F basket case
1985 RZ500 Stock
1987 RZ350 Stock
1985 RZ350F basket case
1985 RZ500 Stock
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Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
Yes, that's right Rob. Always from the top.Redline Junkie wrote:John,
the second position for the needle clip is counted from the top of the needle right?
Rob
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Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
The needle is currently in that position . I made sure the carbs were synced by looking threw the windows in the carbs .silverstrom wrote:Assuming it is a stock built motor with VForce reeds; remove the airbox snorkel and partition. Use a clean dry filter. Drill many holes in the airbox lid. 230 mains, 27.5 pilots. Needle in stock 2nd clip position. Throttle stops should be around 2 3/4 turns for a higher than normal idle. Closer to 1500 is better than the stock 1250. Air screws at 1 1/2 turns. That should get you close to where you need to be. 220 mains is likely where you'll end up, but start at 230 and go down one size and plug chop. Altitude and ambient temperature are variables.
You absolutely must ensure the carbs are synced. That is the last step after adjusting the throttle free play and oil pump. If the sync is wrong the bike will never run right. The best way to sync carbs is to remove the airbox lid and watch the slides with a mirror as you adjust them. No stupid popsicle sticks, straws, or other nonsense.
You said in your 'won't rev past 6k" thread that you are using 89 Octane gas. 89 is too low. You MUST USE premium fuel. 91 octane or higher if you want to avoid problems.
I installed the 200 Main yesterday and went for a 5 mile ride .
The bike rips and feels great , but plug chop says it is still a bit lean.
I have the idle set for a hair above 1000 RPM . So I will increase that today ( what does that help with? )
When you said the air screws should be at 1.5 turns ... that is 1.5 turns out from fully closed correct?
For fuel I have been running 91 Octane Recreation Fuel (No Ethanol) for the past month or so.
What is your opinion on the Toomey 2 into 1 air box with foam filter should I run it ?
I really dont want to cut up my stock airbox , i dont mind removing the snorkel because that can be reversed later .
Thanks again for all the information , it is greatly appreciated
Todd
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds
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Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
Using the windows is a bad idea. They won't get you anywhere near correct for the sync. The slides need to start opening at the same time and reach full open at the same time. Those useless windows will just about tell you full open, but even then just vaguely.
The bike's tachometer reads erratically at the best of times. The book says idle speed is to be set at 1200 +/- 50 RPM. If you set idle speed at 1250 using the bike's tachometer and not a tachometer attached to a spark plug lead I can guarantee you it is not 1250. If your idle speed is low it can affect off idle performance. A higher idle speed makes transitioning easier.
All carb adjustments are set from fully in and then turned out. Left and right do not necessarily line up exactly. The screws from one side to the other can, and often do, start from different set points. Do not overtighten the screws when turning them in. If you damage the seats the carbs are permanently damaged and the screws become useless.
The 2 into 1 is just a headache. Avoid it.
I can appreciate not wanting to drill the airbox lid. You can also run without the lid to see how it performs. If you like the results, then make a decision or get another lid to modify.
Tuning with PJ carbs can be difficult. I've been doing it for years with stock bikes and modified bikes. What I say here comes from lessons learned the hard way. Only you can decide what is right for you. I would suggest you start by getting a proper 1986-90 RZ350 Yamaha manual for your bike. The fact that you set your idle speed to 1000 RPM suggests you aren't following instructions.
Do you understand what a plug chop entails? If not, find out. Not getting it right will get expensive.
The bike's tachometer reads erratically at the best of times. The book says idle speed is to be set at 1200 +/- 50 RPM. If you set idle speed at 1250 using the bike's tachometer and not a tachometer attached to a spark plug lead I can guarantee you it is not 1250. If your idle speed is low it can affect off idle performance. A higher idle speed makes transitioning easier.
All carb adjustments are set from fully in and then turned out. Left and right do not necessarily line up exactly. The screws from one side to the other can, and often do, start from different set points. Do not overtighten the screws when turning them in. If you damage the seats the carbs are permanently damaged and the screws become useless.
The 2 into 1 is just a headache. Avoid it.
I can appreciate not wanting to drill the airbox lid. You can also run without the lid to see how it performs. If you like the results, then make a decision or get another lid to modify.
Tuning with PJ carbs can be difficult. I've been doing it for years with stock bikes and modified bikes. What I say here comes from lessons learned the hard way. Only you can decide what is right for you. I would suggest you start by getting a proper 1986-90 RZ350 Yamaha manual for your bike. The fact that you set your idle speed to 1000 RPM suggests you aren't following instructions.
Do you understand what a plug chop entails? If not, find out. Not getting it right will get expensive.
Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
The best way to sync carbs is with a unisyn. Vacuum does not lie. You want the same vacuum on both carbs. You can pick up a unisyn on eBay. They are delivered, under $100. Makes a world of difference on your tuning. Ask me if I raced.
Rory
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine
-
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:45 pm
- Location: Detroit
Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
Thank you for the informationsilverstrom wrote:Using the windows is a bad idea. They won't get you anywhere near correct for the sync. The slides need to start opening at the same time and reach full open at the same time. Those useless windows will just about tell you full open, but even then just vaguely.
The bike's tachometer reads erratically at the best of times. The book says idle speed is to be set at 1200 +/- 50 RPM. If you set idle speed at 1250 using the bike's tachometer and not a tachometer attached to a spark plug lead I can guarantee you it is not 1250. If your idle speed is low it can affect off idle performance. A higher idle speed makes transitioning easier.
All carb adjustments are set from fully in and then turned out. Left and right do not necessarily line up exactly. The screws from one side to the other can, and often do, start from different set points. Do not overtighten the screws when turning them in. If you damage the seats the carbs are permanently damaged and the screws become useless.
The 2 into 1 is just a headache. Avoid it.
I can appreciate not wanting to drill the airbox lid. You can also run without the lid to see how it performs. If you like the results, then make a decision or get another lid to modify.
Tuning with PJ carbs can be difficult. I've been doing it for years with stock bikes and modified bikes. What I say here comes from lessons learned the hard way. Only you can decide what is right for you. I would suggest you start by getting a proper 1986-90 RZ350 Yamaha manual for your bike. The fact that you set your idle speed to 1000 RPM suggests you aren't following instructions.
Do you understand what a plug chop entails? If not, find out. Not getting it right will get expensive.
I know what a plug chop is and that is what I was performing to verify that the bike is too lean at this point .
I have a Haynes for rz350 but 90% of it pertains to the 84-85 American bikes .
I will for a more specific manual .
I will also verify my idle speed with my timing light and verify proper carb sync as well .
As always I appreciate all the information
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds
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Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
Installed 220 Main jets and adjusted the air screws to 1.5 turns out as suggested above .
Also set my idle to 1500 with my timing light
Modified airbox as well
Pics are here
https://goo.gl/photos/NX5zBuSuWs1ZqjzJ8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
What did you mean when you said remove partition?
I removed the snorkel , the uni filter is only a month old , should I run both pieces of it ?
It is a dual density foam material .
Also what should I do about the hole in the lid from the snorkel ?
Leave it there or plug it ?
Thanks again
Todd
Also set my idle to 1500 with my timing light
Modified airbox as well
Pics are here
https://goo.gl/photos/NX5zBuSuWs1ZqjzJ8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
What did you mean when you said remove partition?
I removed the snorkel , the uni filter is only a month old , should I run both pieces of it ?
It is a dual density foam material .
Also what should I do about the hole in the lid from the snorkel ?
Leave it there or plug it ?
Thanks again
Todd
Last edited by Sitnlow4life on Wed Jul 12, 2017 11:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds
Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
I removed the snorkel and left the box stock.
Rory
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine
2 1984 RZ350s
1985 RZ350
9 1986-1990 RZ350s
2000 ST2
2005 749
2005 749 with 999 engine
-
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2017 12:45 pm
- Location: Detroit
Re: 1990 Yamaha RZ350 Toomey pipe Install
Got a chance to ride the bike today ....
Bike seems to be a bit boggy and has some flat spots now .
It was definitely more crisp before I made any of the changes yesterday.
I pulled the plugs and they are still quite white to me , not much coloring at all .
Should I proceed to a 230 main jet now ?
Thanks again
Bike seems to be a bit boggy and has some flat spots now .
It was definitely more crisp before I made any of the changes yesterday.
I pulled the plugs and they are still quite white to me , not much coloring at all .
Should I proceed to a 230 main jet now ?
Thanks again
1990 RZ350 with Toomey Pipes and Vforce Reeds