New member and new RZ Owner.

General forum on engines, transmissions, gearing and modifications to each

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spudzilla
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Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:59 pm
Location: Southwest Missouri

New member and new RZ Owner.

#1 Post by spudzilla » Wed Dec 19, 2012 1:53 pm

Since this is my first posting here on the forum, I wanted to start by saying hello to everybody here. I finally talked my friend into selling me his RZ that he bought new in 83, which has not been started since 1988. The bike just turned over 9000 miles when he parked it. It seems to be leaking at the base gasket and is probably the reason for him parking it but I never understood while he did not fix it. The RZ is untouched except for maybe aftermarket pipes (I am not sure what stock ones look like).

My first question is my title says 1983 but the frame VIN sticker reads, Jan/84, is this considered an 83 or 84.

I would like the opinion of other RZ owners about how I should go about this project first. I was thinking of replacing the top end gaskets/seals, cleaning carbs and tank, and putting it back together and see how the bike runs (as long as the rings and pistons are in decent shape, the engine turns over just fine now).

Thanks,
Gene


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ief
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#2 Post by ief » Wed Dec 19, 2012 2:48 pm

Wish i found a bike with those miles on it :)

Anyway, I think what you propose sounds fine, you could do a compression test to get an indication about piston/ rings but normally they should be fine given the mileage.

One thing what would worry me is the state of the crank seals given the time it hasn't been started/ driven.

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Badass
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Location: Delray Beach FL.

#3 Post by Badass » Wed Dec 19, 2012 3:37 pm

That bike is in such sad shape you should forget about trying to revive it and just give it to me! :smt003
Seriously, engine tear down with all the seals replaced then whatever it takes to keep it on the road how you like it. Carbs and petcock will need cleaned and or replaced.
Two strokes keep the mosquito's in check!!
1984RZ350 Bought with 2,600 mi. in 1998
SpecII Pipes, Complete engine rebuild, 30's, S. 1 Porting, Clutch, Self ported reed cages, T.D.R. reeds, Fork brace, Steering damper.

spudzilla
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:59 pm
Location: Southwest Missouri

#4 Post by spudzilla » Wed Dec 19, 2012 5:05 pm

I agree, the crank seals may be an issue as well. I hope the carbs can be brought back to life; I do not have it apart yet to see how bad they are.

Has anybody tried the trick of soaking them (carbs) in a crock-pot with anti-freeze, would be nice if it works.

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aaronmvrider
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Location: Central Coast N.S.W Australia

#5 Post by aaronmvrider » Wed Dec 19, 2012 6:10 pm

total strip to bare frame rebuild..... then you know every detail... brakes.. bearings..seals.. forks... everything... it has been sitting for 24 years..
1 x 4mm stroker rz 375cc 1983
1 x 7mm stroker rz 443cc 1984 (under construction)
1 x rz 500
1 x mv agusta 1000

seahorse
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#6 Post by seahorse » Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:08 pm

Hey Squidz nice find, probably the best ive seen for a few years.

As the others say best to restore from the start, much easier with a bike that has minimul history (hands on ).

Try the following link for a bit of info on year / model.
31k was 83-84, and there is a section in the link re the pipes, they are more than likely later model factory pipes if stamped and can be identified .

you can get all the stuff you need from several places like Economy Cycle,PJME, FastFromThePast, Wicked ATV,and others.
Check in vendors forum on this sight for the regular supporters and support them.

Get your hands on a manual or download a copy, and dont be afraid to ask ( of course after some research) any question, as there are people here that will bend over backwards to help out, its the most helpful freindly site on the planet. MerryXmas, and mate remember "one potato at a time" take your time, keep it original, and you will end up with a very valuable gem.

You didnt say where you are from but considering that cheap arse chip board on the wall I suspect USA.

Good luck Brother.

http://www.rd350lc.net/index.htm
81 RD 250 LC Hybrid .Widened frame with Aprilia RS250 Back end & Front end, strokd RZ 421, Kennys TSA's, 31KVM26SS Carbs M-360 P-25 ALBA Ndl Pos 3, Air 1.3/4
81Rd350lc resto 2016
81 Rd250lc resto 2017
1999 ZRX 1100

seahorse
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#7 Post by seahorse » Wed Dec 19, 2012 7:15 pm

PS by all means soak the carbs, but strip them back to the bodys, and dont I repeat dont mix the float bowls up, may even pay to take a photo of the lines, in particular the vac line connection point for future reference.

Godd luck
81 RD 250 LC Hybrid .Widened frame with Aprilia RS250 Back end & Front end, strokd RZ 421, Kennys TSA's, 31KVM26SS Carbs M-360 P-25 ALBA Ndl Pos 3, Air 1.3/4
81Rd350lc resto 2016
81 Rd250lc resto 2017
1999 ZRX 1100

ief
Posts: 82
Joined: Wed Jan 06, 2010 8:08 am

#8 Post by ief » Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:06 pm

Pipes are after market, name 'dorr' comes to mind or early gianelli's but not sure, after market none the less.

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steveloomis
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#9 Post by steveloomis » Wed Dec 19, 2012 8:58 pm

I have been waiting to respond all day, been busy otherwise. Now everyone has jumped in to assist. Everyone loves to see a find like yours and would give a left N-t for it. So we live thru you and your experience. Please document with pictures and post them up. Everyone here is excited to see your progress.

Let me add a very necessary thing to check, the Oil Pump. Definitely get a Genuine Yamaha manual, either paper or download. Look to the Oil pump area about how to check the pump output. Basically you idle the engine running premix, open the oil pump to max output via the cable and capture the output of each line to the carbs in a cc measured tube (you can get them at a drug store for cheap). From Memory each side should pump 2.8cc in 200 strokes. At idle, it is easy to count the strokes.

Before this however, go to Economy cycle order a pump rebuild kit. Instructions are on this site with pictures and is easy to do. The output spigots that go to the carbs are a press fit. Grab with pliers and gently twist and pull to remove. Each spigot has a spring and check ball so be careful to NOT lose it. Clean any crap that may have collected there. They can and do clog at this point. Once you get all the other stuff done and reassembled, do the oil pump output test before even thinking of driving it.

DON'T BE TEMPTED TO GET IT STARTED AND RIDE IT before cleaning the carbs and oil pump rebuild as well as other seals. It can ruin your day if something is leaking air and you run lean.....!!!!!

Enthusiasm is running high for you on this front....

FYI Economy Cycle offers a discount to Forum Members.
Use RDTECH as the promo code and get a good discount.

Steve
'81 RD350LC hybrid w/84 RZ engine. Zeel, Old style Toomeys, Yboot and filter 420 main 22.5 pilot, Air screw 2.5 turns out, DJ needle 2nd from top, Canadian VM26 carbs.
'85 KR/RZ US. Tank is seeping causing a blister in paint.....

spudzilla
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Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:59 pm
Location: Southwest Missouri

#10 Post by spudzilla » Thu Dec 20, 2012 12:16 am

Seahorse, you are correct, I am in the USA and I too despise the chipboard walls but I am living at a rental house for now until I get back out of school and will build another home/shop.

I appreciate everybody’s advice and willingness to help guide me through my RZ journey. I am taking it slow with disassembly and after finally getting keys today; I was able to start taking it apart more (I was amazed what a tight fir the air box was,...:) ). I removed the pipes tonight, and added a couple of pictures of them, one of the silencers has an area where a logo used to be but the name is unreadable.

I will give Economy a call tomorrow, order gaskets, and oil pump rebuild kit.

I hope to have a chance to work on the bike again tomorrow night and get the engine removed.

Thanks everybody, for all the info.


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This old RZ
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#11 Post by This old RZ » Thu Dec 20, 2012 12:36 am

What you do depends entirely on what you want and your budget. :smt002 You can have a rider fro not too much cash outlay,maybe the price of gaskets,misc and labor costs...up to well over $8000.00 for a total restoration.
Im guessing your more at the ride it point...Its been sitting a long...long time. One bad thing about 2 strokes is one cylinder is "open" to the elements at all times,I cant trll for sure but it looks like some moisture/corrossion in the photos? That,is a warning to inspect your crank for any rust..if theres any rust whatsoever ..its toast. time for a rebuild on the crank. If you can spare the $ and labor costs..Id do a crank rebuild along with a full gasket /seal set for your motor..essentially a rebuild the mechanicals,carb strip,engine seals,injection system,the oil injection. DONT modify it, just rebuild what is safe,and clean strip and adjust all the proper engine functions.Honestly... You can probably get by with out doing some of this...Im just steering you toward a safe harbor. Keep the injection system...Keep the stock carbs! You donr need anything else.
After that or during the motor strip..you can clean,polish.clean and polish and go through your suspension. again look for leaking seals,lube everything thats needed and adjust whats required. @ strokes are not like 4 strokes...the worst thing you can do is let one sit without starting and riding it. A 4 stroke can sit decades and with little effort go on a road trip the same afternoon...lol..these things are delicate...but when all is tuneed and working,there a treat and fun as hell for a little bike.
This is just safe advice..you might be able to start it ,and ride it after minimal maint,and enjoy alot of miles? But sitting that long...is like death row,usually for the crank & seals.
Good luck,keep us posted. FACTORY MANUAL!!!! :smt002

spudzilla
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2012 11:59 pm
Location: Southwest Missouri

Re: New member and new RZ Owner.

#12 Post by spudzilla » Thu Sep 28, 2017 2:11 pm

Hello everyone, long time since I have been on the forum, hope everyone is doing well. Would anyone be interested in buying my RZ, I posted the pictures of back in 2012 (on this post)? Due to finishing school, several deaths in the family and many other issues, I finally have come to terms that I need to sell the bike and let someone else, restore and enjoy her. I am curious to what the bike is possibly worth I really have no idea (I am open to suggestions)??? Thanks.

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Arrow
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Re: New member and new RZ Owner.

#13 Post by Arrow » Thu Sep 28, 2017 3:38 pm

Welcome to the forum. Great project you have there. I provide a full restoration service on the oil pumps, should you require that.

waltmil
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Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2012 9:23 pm
Location: Panacea, FL USA

Re: New member and new RZ Owner.

#14 Post by waltmil » Thu Sep 28, 2017 4:43 pm

The bike worth exactly how much someone will pay for it. I would say somewhere between 3 and 5 thousand. It depends on the condition of the tank and to a somewhat lesser degree, the bodywork.
Red/White US '84, Spec II pipes, Y-boot w/K&N, Fox Shock, Mikuni carbs?

vmxwinn
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Re: New member and new RZ Owner.

#15 Post by vmxwinn » Fri Sep 29, 2017 2:13 am

The value will be dependent on if it's in running condition yet or not. If it is not running closer to 3000 or less. If you haven't done much in the way of restoring it is going to need everything from tires, suspension, motor work etc.... Which will all add up to quite a bit of $$$ and when done is worth anywhere from $6K to $8k. Most buyers will know this and subtract what they believe it will cost to bring it up to spec from the finished value and offer you a little less.

Here is a good example of true value in one of the most expensive markets in the whole nation. So should bring the most $$$. I have looked it and if I didn't already have a nice low mileage RZ would buy it. Bike has some nice upgrades to both the engine and chassis, similar mileage, great running condition, includes extra parts and the rare seat cowl as well. All for $6k.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/d/ ... 05339.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
85 Y/B, Toomey pipes, PWK 28's, JJH Needle #2, 45 pilot jet, 145 main, Pods, VForce 4 reed blocks, +3 ignition, Milled head 1.1mm squish, R6 Shock, Progressive

Many Vintage MX Bikes, 03 ZRX1200R, 86 Moto Guzzi 1000 Le Mans MK IV, 86 VFR 750, 74 GT 550

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