R1 Front End Howto (Pictures)
Moderator: rztom
I'm running a FZ600 swingarm with a 02 R6 shock. The rear wheel is a GSXR 750 three spoke unit that is 4.5" wide with a 1989 GS500 cush drive. The rear tire is a 150/60-17, which is about the limit you can go without using offset sprockets and relocation the brake torque arm.
I'd have to say that the R1 forks, in combination with the bigger rubber on the rear, makes for quite an impressive handling RZ. I have had a massive increase in corner speed. Not that the same corner speeds could have been reached with the original RZ components (with a more talented rider than I), but the whole setup is more confidence inspiring and it allows me to be faster. :)
As I said, the frame is now the weak link (even though mine is braced). And I have my suspicions about the swingarm. I would like to brace it up one day. But the flex is not bad. Nothing real sudden and unpredictable. It's my que to give the engine more throttle when things start to wobble. Once you apply more torque to the thing, it goes ahead and wrenches itself stable. But I really have to be hammering it to notice. I mean way past what I consider aggressive riding. I'm talking white knuckle full tilt boogie riding.
I'm with Steve on the TZ, RGV and NSR forks being more suited to the RZ350. Late modle R6 USD forks would be cool, but their spring rate is .900 kg/mm and would most definately require re-springing and re-valving. One of the biggest reasons I chose the R1 forks was, at the time, they were cheap! I bought a complete R1 front end including the wheel, brakes, clip-ons, and triple clamps for half the price of some TZ forks by themselvs. But the price of the R1 stuff has jumped drastically since then and TZ stuff may be more viable.
I wanted TZ forks. The R1 forks were a compromise that turned out to work quite well.
Steve
Steve
I'd have to say that the R1 forks, in combination with the bigger rubber on the rear, makes for quite an impressive handling RZ. I have had a massive increase in corner speed. Not that the same corner speeds could have been reached with the original RZ components (with a more talented rider than I), but the whole setup is more confidence inspiring and it allows me to be faster. :)
As I said, the frame is now the weak link (even though mine is braced). And I have my suspicions about the swingarm. I would like to brace it up one day. But the flex is not bad. Nothing real sudden and unpredictable. It's my que to give the engine more throttle when things start to wobble. Once you apply more torque to the thing, it goes ahead and wrenches itself stable. But I really have to be hammering it to notice. I mean way past what I consider aggressive riding. I'm talking white knuckle full tilt boogie riding.
I'm with Steve on the TZ, RGV and NSR forks being more suited to the RZ350. Late modle R6 USD forks would be cool, but their spring rate is .900 kg/mm and would most definately require re-springing and re-valving. One of the biggest reasons I chose the R1 forks was, at the time, they were cheap! I bought a complete R1 front end including the wheel, brakes, clip-ons, and triple clamps for half the price of some TZ forks by themselvs. But the price of the R1 stuff has jumped drastically since then and TZ stuff may be more viable.
I wanted TZ forks. The R1 forks were a compromise that turned out to work quite well.
Steve
Steve
Fuel Injected RZ350
Sorry I've been gone from my thread for so long. Smurph got my account squared away today, and I noticed I had 605 view on this bugger!! That's great, I hope it helps someone down the road. Anyway, as you've all seen, Smurph is the real expert here, and is very nice to help us all out.
I will be getting my FZ swing arm/SV650 rim, GS500 cush setup this month. I'll post pics when its finished.
Jesse
I will be getting my FZ swing arm/SV650 rim, GS500 cush setup this month. I'll post pics when its finished.
Jesse
Jesse Walters
NESBA #013
2007 KTM 990 Adv. S
1972 Honda CB 750 K2
1985 Yamaha RZ350
NESBA #013
2007 KTM 990 Adv. S
1972 Honda CB 750 K2
1985 Yamaha RZ350
OK, so I am getting a HUGE tax rebate this year so I decided to finally get going on the suspension conversion for my 81 LC.
I bought a set of 02-03 R1 forks because they look cooler than conventional forks and they come annodized black. I also got a black front wheel to fit in with the paint scheme I am going for.
Question: Is the 02-03 R1 steering stem the same as the earlier version used in the first post of this thread? Will the bearing part numbers the original poster used work for me?
I was quite surprised to see the R1 steering stem used ball bearings. Any idea how best to get the original bearing race off the steering stem? I have a lathe so making a spacer is no big deal for me. :D
I will also be going ahead with my SV swingarm conversion .... hopefully. Depends on what my welder/fabricator buddy thinks is easier, convert the SV swingarm or go full custom? Either way it will use the SV rear wheel, cush and brake cause I have all those already.
I bought a set of 02-03 R1 forks because they look cooler than conventional forks and they come annodized black. I also got a black front wheel to fit in with the paint scheme I am going for.
Question: Is the 02-03 R1 steering stem the same as the earlier version used in the first post of this thread? Will the bearing part numbers the original poster used work for me?
I was quite surprised to see the R1 steering stem used ball bearings. Any idea how best to get the original bearing race off the steering stem? I have a lathe so making a spacer is no big deal for me. :D
I will also be going ahead with my SV swingarm conversion .... hopefully. Depends on what my welder/fabricator buddy thinks is easier, convert the SV swingarm or go full custom? Either way it will use the SV rear wheel, cush and brake cause I have all those already.
'81 RD350LC
I packed the stem with ice, big vice grips on the race, while heating the race with a torch.SVRacer wrote: I was quite surprised to see the R1 steering stem used ball bearings. Any idea how best to get the original bearing race off the steering stem? I have a lathe so making a spacer is no big deal for me. :D
1985 KR-RZ350 Project.
Instead of using 2 #22-1007 what about 1# 22-1012. I contain's
2-30x48x14 bearings? There 1 mm thicker them the bearings in the
22-1007 kit but I think that would be O.K. Here a reference chart of
All Balls
http://www.pro-flo.com/PRO-FLO_ALL_BALL ... ERENCE.htm
2-30x48x14 bearings? There 1 mm thicker them the bearings in the
22-1007 kit but I think that would be O.K. Here a reference chart of
All Balls
http://www.pro-flo.com/PRO-FLO_ALL_BALL ... ERENCE.htm
Art in Peterborough
suspension upgrades
I have in the past manage to acquire complete front and rear suspensions for the VJ22 and VJ23. Both of these suspensions are a great upgrade for the RZ350. I have spoken in the past with RGVSteve about the later model TZR250 suspension (front and rear) to be used as donor components on the RZ350.
I have family in Japan and I have the ability to get almost anything, but I won't get a complete bike because of liability issues. I can be reach here in this forum or at
stroke2_exotic@yahoo.com
I have family in Japan and I have the ability to get almost anything, but I won't get a complete bike because of liability issues. I can be reach here in this forum or at
stroke2_exotic@yahoo.com
Can anyone confirm this ?
will the larger bearings just mean a smaller spacer is required or will the extra 1mm cause the race not to fit correctly. From the images it seems there would be enough room.
From what i have read the standard R1 bearing is 30x55x17.
will the larger bearings just mean a smaller spacer is required or will the extra 1mm cause the race not to fit correctly. From the images it seems there would be enough room.
From what i have read the standard R1 bearing is 30x55x17.
acormier7 wrote:Instead of using 2 #22-1007 what about 1# 22-1012. I contain's
2-30x48x14 bearings? There 1 mm thicker them the bearings in the
22-1007 kit but I think that would be O.K. Here a reference chart of
All Balls
http://www.pro-flo.com/PRO-FLO_ALL_BALL ... ERENCE.htm
The R1 stem is a little short. The thinner the bearings, the better for putting R1 forks on the RZ. 1mm thicker bearings == .080" less thread engagement for the stem nut. Of course, one could cut a pocket into the top triple clamp to counter sink the nut a little. But if you want the project to remain easy, then go with 2 of the standard RZ lower taper bearings. (Or a kit that has two of these bearings, if available.)
You will need a 5mm spacer below the lower bearing on the stem regardless of the bearing thickness. This is because the RZ has a sleeve on the steering neck that hangs down 4.5mm that houses the original lower seal. You cannot press a bearing flush to the lower R1 triple because of this. The spacer is mandatory unless you want to cut the steering neck down.
Steve
You will need a 5mm spacer below the lower bearing on the stem regardless of the bearing thickness. This is because the RZ has a sleeve on the steering neck that hangs down 4.5mm that houses the original lower seal. You cannot press a bearing flush to the lower R1 triple because of this. The spacer is mandatory unless you want to cut the steering neck down.
Steve
Fuel Injected RZ350