Rotor bolts

Message

tropical snowman · #1 Post by **tropical snowman** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 8:01 am

I've managed to confuse myself, I thought when putting in disc bolts that you always use Loctite but I read online that you should use copper grease?

which is it? Loctite or copper grease?

cheers

Matt

nokturnal · #2 Post by **nokturnal** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 9:30 am

pretty sure they use loctite at the yamaha factory...

RGVSteve · #3 Post by **RGVSteve** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:08 am

Matt,

Factory uses loctite, I use blue loctite,it holds but still allows the fastener
to be removed. If you have parts once put together you won't be
taking apart you can use red loctite.

acormier7 · #4 Post by **acormier7** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 1:22 pm

When using S.S. fasteners in aluminun it's a goog idea to use cooper grease or some form of anti-grease compond.

force · #5 Post by **force** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 2:28 pm

+1 on the blue loctite.

MB

tropical snowman · #6 Post by **tropical snowman** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 8:44 pm

see what I mean.... good arguments for both, I have to admit that I think the blue loctite is the way to go, I certainly don't want a bolt to come loose!

I think if it was a race bike that got lots of attention and the rotors are taken off occasionally then the copper grease is probably better but I can't ever imagine having to take the rotors off again.

thanks for the input

Cheers

Matt

MBoyett220 · #7 Post by **MBoyett220** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 9:15 pm

I use a ton of titanium so I have to use the anti-seize compounds. It keeps the different metals from galling or seizing together. If you are only using steel I think loctite would be fine. I would only use blue though as the red needs heat to break it loose and there is too much rubber, paint, fuel, oil etc. for using heat. Michael

T.RexRacing · #8 Post by **T.RexRacing** » Sat Apr 19, 2008 9:59 pm

Ditto on what he said with the addition of cleaning out the threads with a good bottoming tap.

RGVSteve · #9 Post by **RGVSteve** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 12:00 am

Matt,
Like MBoyett220 said, only difference is 95% of the bolts on my RGV are
"Ti" and I use blue loctite not anti-seize. The loctite works very well as
a lubricant for the treads and helps prevent galling with dissimlar metals.
Anti-seize is good stuff, if your anal about torquing be neat when applying
to much can actually effect your torque reading. In my real job we use
a substance called Kyrtox on alum. and stainless fittings, works very
nice, but unfortunatly it's not available to the general public.

xen-uno · #10 Post by **xen-uno** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:18 am

Maybe not at a store near you but available online .... cheap too ...

http://www.vacuumoil.com/krytoxgrease.htm

tropical snowman · #11 Post by **tropical snowman** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 8:00 pm

Ok, I figured out what I want to do, I will use the copper grease because I want to get some titanium bolts eventually.

RGVSteve can you post some pics of your bike please?

On another note, I've decided that the 'worlds rattiest RZ' will now be wearing an Aprilia RS250 frame and swinger and have a cheetah kit...finally I've made a decision!

Does anyone know where the best place to get Ti bolts is? I found some in the UK but rotor bolts were about $200-250 for the set of 3! I also want to get some for the front fender and most other places on the the bike.

Cheers

And thanks for all the advice

Matt

force · #12 Post by **force** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:26 pm

Cheetah kits are fun....

Remember tho that if ya use anything over the 421 kit means you need to have your cases machined,Personally I dont see the point in spending the dollars to use the kit and only end up with a 420 at best....Also,Make sure ya use the cheetah and not the cub/supercub.

I hope Mr Steve doesnt mind me posting a link to his site....

http://www.rgvsteve.com/

A lil job he did 4 me :)

http://www.rzrd500.com/500phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=7363

Ive been dealing with the two masters(Rgv Steve +Steve Murphree)
for a little while here in the USA,I would highly HIGHLY recommend them both! - I have looked at stuff from Mick Costin as I have a ton of AUS mates but his stuff is a lil pricey,UK very likely the same way....If ya need help here shipping to you in Aus let me know as generally im sending stuff there weekly anyways and would be happy to add yer stuff into the equation :) - I can certainly help with the cheetah stuff as im a trinity racing dealer / Yamaha dealer to boot :)

MB

RGVSteve · #13 Post by **RGVSteve** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 10:32 pm

Force

I don't mind at all. Matt I have other pictures saved out if the picture's
on my web page aren't clear enough let me know and we'll try and post
some that show things more clearly.

xen-uno · #14 Post by **xen-uno** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:10 pm

How's that going to work Force? Looks like it will be an horizontal underframe shock arrangement. Will the arm have struts to a 180 deg rocker above swinger strutted to a 90 deg rocker below to compress the shock?

BTW ... very nice welds & machining

RGVSteve · #15 Post by **RGVSteve** » Sun Apr 20, 2008 11:30 pm

xen-uno,

Force's swingarm will work exactly like the stock arm. "A" brackets are
made and welded in same location relative to swingarm pivot bolt and
lower frame pivot assemble attach bolt just like the stock swingarm, so
unless something on my jig changed, it should work nicely.

I do have a question if I may, have you had a chance to meassure the
length of the pivot tube on your 400RR arm, if so would you share that
info.
Thank You