RZ/RD 350 & Misc. 2-Stroke Tech BBS

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 1:11 pm 
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Does anyone know of an epoxy, like JB weld, that is that is resistant to gasoline/oil? Found an answer for JB weld but interested if anyone has used another product that can repair a carb post noted in the picture. Tricky part is creating a hole that won't adhere to the pin. The JB site states:

"Is J-B Weld resistant to water and/or gasoline?
When fully cured, J-B Weld is completely resistant to water, gasoline, and about every other petroleum product or automotive chemical. For wet-surface or submerged water or gasoline repairs, try our SteelStik or WaterWeld."

Any other product that's successful to save a carb?


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Last edited by LC Cnd on Fri Nov 17, 2017 2:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 4:55 pm 
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steel stick is easy to use and good. I would probably just get a new carb.


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 5:43 pm 
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You might could get away with a dab of grease on the pin so the JB wont stick there. Do you have the piece that popped off? If so grease on the surface the pins slides in and out of or just put it together with the pin out and gently run a drill bit the same size as the hole after it cures for a couple of days. Best bet is replace the carb body as stated if feasable.

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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 7:36 pm 
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Buddy of mine volunteered to prep the carbs (replace float bowls) and when he put back the pin aimed high and whack off the top. Rather than blurt out my true feeling on this matter, decided to find a solution; hence the question. He just put the carb back together, did not locate the missing piece (asked while balancing the floats and 'oh, what this?') and has aready swept his shop up. Grease might work as it is such a small fix and worth the cost of a JB vs. new carb. If this solution does not pan out - save for new carb as riding season is done. My only concern is if the fabrication will hold while immersed in fuel. Be interesting to see how it works out.

PS. To all you veterns (with us and not) on Remberance day; Thank-you for your service n' sacrifice.


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:27 pm 
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Done. Hopefully gas resistant.


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 2:54 am 
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It will takes days to fully cure.

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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 6:13 am 
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For your piece of mind I slathered JB weld on the bottom of a diesel truck fuel tank where rust had perforated it. It still wasn't leaking 2 years later when I sold it.


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 6:39 pm 
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How much time Rory - say at room temp (70 F.) Three days suffice?


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 8:24 pm 
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I have previously been told by bodyworkers that JB will last for quite some time but expect it to leak after a while. I have not tested this.

To Rory's point, Epoxy can take a long time to dry. Epoxy primer at least a week. Epoxy used for composites, a couple weeks before fully hardened. The company that makes JB should be able to provide more info. on full time to cure.


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2017 9:49 pm 
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The manufacture states 24 hrs on their website however I'm sceptical. Why? tested after 24 hrs and the cap I created popped off after clean up sanding . Suspect some of the grease used to protect the pin may have worked its way between the post and the epoxy. Some on the jb post did adhere. Cleaned the area up, steal wooled all contact surfaces, applied the pin without grease (worked), and reapplied another setting of JB weld a bit more liberally. It adhered solid but will wait 5 days b4 a test.


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 12:16 am 
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Yeah, I think a week plus, would be good, at room temp.

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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 5:35 pm 
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I used to have a '72 Chevy blazer that had 33" tires and a 4 inch lift (not crazy tall, but you know, up a bit) some jackwagons decided to punch a 1" hole in the corner of the gas tank to steal gas (easy to fit a 5 gallon gas can under it). The tank was full so the rest of the gas went leaking all over the street. A cop saw it and had it towed (without trying to contact me, thanks).
I had to go get it at the impound yard. Tank was completely empty and wouldn't hold a drop of gas. I repaired it with JB Weld. mixed the stuff up and jammed it in the hole. Had to put gas in it immediately after filling it so I could drive it out of impound. Never leaked in 10 more years of owning it.
I think you should be ok.


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 10:12 pm 
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These are interesting testimonials. I had an automotive mechanic that would not deal with anything that would touch gasoline if JB weld was used as I was told it would leak after approximately a year.


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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 1:33 pm 
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I once had a cylinder epoxy'd on the outside where my newly created boyesen ports came through the outer surface. (Not my work and pretty certainly no JB weld)
As it was closing the leak it was in directcontact with fuel and crankcase pressure pulsation.
That was good for a few years, but then came loose.
Now as I have a TIG box at hand, I'd certainly weld it.

For your carb: try soldering it and drill in a new hole.
For any type of glue the surface is too small and too hard to clean good enough.

Another one may be manufacturing a whole new "pole" from aluminium, drill a mounting hole into the the old one and press in the new one.
Not sure, but I think I saw something like that in the RD500 section of this page.

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 Post subject: Re: Fuel resistant epoxy
PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:47 pm 
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MK wrote:
I once had a cylinder epoxy'd on the outside where my newly created boyesen ports came through the outer surface. (Not my work and pretty certainly no JB weld)
As it was closing the leak it was in directcontact with fuel and crankcase pressure pulsation.
That was good for a few years, but then came loose.
Now as I have a TIG box at hand, I'd certainly weld it.

For your carb: try soldering it and drill in a new hole.
For any type of glue the surface is too small and too hard to clean good enough.

Another one may be manufacturing a whole new "pole" from aluminium, drill a mounting hole into the the old one and press in the new one.
Not sure, but I think I saw something like that in the RD500 section of this page.


the last remedy will work . i did the same thing to a broken switch that was NLA.
fiddly but doable.(need access to small lathe and mill).
good luck mark

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