Hi
I am suspecting that my F2 is a mix-up of different electric parts/bits and the harness clearly has been "worked on". But it should be said that it all worked good before my stator died (described in another post here)
*Firstly I wonder if anyone can help me identify my stator which has a markings that says "7JY" stamped onto the metal core??
-I am curious to check this against the stator vs flywheel vs CDI list I found on here before I rewind this stator, but the markings did not check out.
The wires coming off the stator are;
3x White + Blue in a 4 pin connector (3-phase + neutral)
Black (grounded to metal core)
Green
Red
Brown
White/red (pickup)
White/green (pickup)
*Secondly, I suspect the wiring harness itself is from a '85 or earlier bike as the connector found on the harness side for the Regulator/Rectifier is a 6 flat pin type, and that the R/R has 4LO-A0 stamped on the side. (Harness matches 4LO R/R connector, but this should not be found on a 1990 bike)
The 4LO R/R has a square base, whereas the F2 should have a more rectangular shaped base (47x-81960-a2) with 4 pins out if I got this correct?
However it seems that the regulator have been working fine so far and the diode test procedure checks out fine so I will leave it in, unless someone will advise otherwise?
And have anyone else done the mix/match of these two types of regulators and can explain how with regards to wiring 6 pins to 4 pins or visa versa?
By the way, I am looking for a English wiring diagram for the late F2s. Mine is Brazil made and lived in Italy so the corresponding diagrams are bothersome to translate for colour codes and similar.
Thanks
Kjell
Electric mess 1UA F2
Moderator: rztom
Electric mess 1UA F2
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RD350 YPVS 1990
F2 converted to N2 Red/white 1986 - Figaroli pipes
RD350 YPVS 1990
F2 converted to N2 Red/white 1986 - Figaroli pipes
Re: Electric mess 1UA F2
The stator looks like the "usual" one for an F2, the rectifier is from the earlier 31K/4L0.
It works just fine if connected the right way (the older one has additional brown ignition plus and black ground cable)
It should work with the 1UA-50 CDI (assuming appropriate rotor) or any aftermarket DC CDI (works with any rotor).
It works just fine if connected the right way (the older one has additional brown ignition plus and black ground cable)
It should work with the 1UA-50 CDI (assuming appropriate rotor) or any aftermarket DC CDI (works with any rotor).
Bye
Martin
Martin
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- Posts: 1373
- Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2013 2:34 am
Re: Electric mess 1UA F2
If you have issues with no spark look for my post entitled just that from the past. MK helped my solve my wiring issues as they decided to switch wires between the stator and the harness between generations. If you are running the opposite way (late stator, early harness) then you may run into this issue. Then again, maybe not!
I thought the early stators had more white wires which would confirm MK but just going off memory!
I thought the early stators had more white wires which would confirm MK but just going off memory!
Re: Electric mess 1UA F2
Thanks Martin.MK wrote:The stator looks like the "usual" one for an F2, the rectifier is from the earlier 31K/4L0.
It works just fine if connected the right way (the older one has additional brown ignition plus and black ground cable)
It should work with the 1UA-50 CDI (assuming appropriate rotor) or any aftermarket DC CDI (works with any rotor).
That explains it. Previous owner must have known as this did work. I do not quite understand what the brown extra wire does though? Is it a separate dc + to the ignition routed without feeding the battery?
Regards
Kjell
----------------------------------
RD350 YPVS 1990
F2 converted to N2 Red/white 1986 - Figaroli pipes
RD350 YPVS 1990
F2 converted to N2 Red/white 1986 - Figaroli pipes
Re: Electric mess 1UA F2
My guess: It's a simple on/off to disconnect everything if ignition is off.
Btw: The older one is considered "better" anyway as the later ones often fail. Especially on bad ground connection which they solely have via the fastening screws.
Btw: The older one is considered "better" anyway as the later ones often fail. Especially on bad ground connection which they solely have via the fastening screws.
Bye
Martin
Martin
Re: Electric mess 1UA F2
I found an explanation on another site indicating that the 6th Brown wire is a "voltage sensing" line usually taken off the head light switched circuit, which the regulator i turn uses to keep the output steady. Seems logic I guess....take a look at he comments on the drawing for 6 pin 3phase r/r here;
https://www.lambertsbikes.co.uk/product ... rectifier/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Regards
Kjell
https://www.lambertsbikes.co.uk/product ... rectifier/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Regards
Kjell
----------------------------------
RD350 YPVS 1990
F2 converted to N2 Red/white 1986 - Figaroli pipes
RD350 YPVS 1990
F2 converted to N2 Red/white 1986 - Figaroli pipes