2001 R1 Speedometer HOWTO

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smurph
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2001 R1 Speedometer HOWTO

#1 Post by smurph » Mon Aug 08, 2005 4:43 pm

As promised, here is the goods on adapting an R1 speedometer to an RZ.

Parts Needed:
  1. 2001 R1 instrument cluster
  2. 2001 R1 upper harness (The one the headlights attach to)
  3. 2001 R1 temp sensor
  4. GS101202 Cherry speed sensor. (I got mine from Digikey)
  5. 1K ohm resistor (Radio Shack or Digikey)
I also chose to make the connections with the use of some 6 position electrical connectors I purchased at Radio Shack. It made for a really clean and professional looking installation.

Code: Select all

COLOR CODES
B black         Sb sky blue        G/R green/red      R/L red/blue    
Br brown        W white            G/W green/white    R/W red/white   
Ch chocolate    Y yellow           G/Y green/yellow   R/Y red/yellow  
Dg dark green   B/L black/blue     L/B blue/black     W/B white/black 
G green         B/R black/red      L/R blue/red       W/G white/green 
Gy gray         B/W black/white    L/W blue/white     W/Y white/yellow
L blue          B/Y black/yellow   L/Y blue/yellow    Y/B yellow/black
O orange        Br/L brown/blue    O/R orange/red     Y/L yellow/blue 
P pink          Br/R brown/red     R/B red/black   
R red           Br/W brown/white   R/G red/green   
On the R1 harnes, these wires have the following functions:
Sb/W - Neutral light
Ch - Left Trun Signal
Dg - Right Turn Signal
B/R - Oil Level
G/W - Fuel Level
G/B - Cooling Fan Relay
Br - Switched 12v
R/G - Unswitched 12v
B - Ground
Y - High Beam light
L - Meter back lights
W - Speed sensor input
L/Y - Speed sensor power
G/R - Temp sensor input
B/L - Temp sensor ground
Y/B - Tach input.

Here are the RZ wire we will be using:
L/W - Meter lights
Sb - Neutral light
Ch - Left Trun Signal
Dg - Right Turn Signal
B/R - Oil Level
Br - Switched 12v
B - Ground
Y - High Beam light
R - Unswitched 12v
W/G - Speedometer Reed switch
W/G - Exciter
  1. Speedometer

    The first item up is mounting the speed sensor. You will have to fabricate a bracket and position the sensor like this:
    Image
    1. Connect the speed sensor black wire (output) to the W wire of the R1 harness and to the W/G speedo reed switch wire of the RZ harness. (not the W/G wire of the CDI exciter) This is to attempt to retain the original operation of the turn signal canceling unit.
    2. Connect the speed sensor blue wire to ground.
    3. Connect the speed sensor brown wire to the L/Y wire of the R1 harness.
  2. Tachometer
    1. Find the W/G wire that comes out of the wiring harnes from the flywheel on the RZ. There is a connector with both W/R and W/G wires right where it joins the main harness.
    2. Splice into the W/G wire and connect it to the Y/B wire on the R1 harness.
  3. Indicator Lights
    1. Connect the RZ Sb wire to the R1 Sb/W wire. (Nuetral switch)
    2. Connect the RZ Ch wire to the R1 Ch wire. (Left turn)
    3. Connect the RZ Dg wire to the R1 Dg wire. (Right turn)
    4. On a RZ that uses premix, connect the R1 B/R wire to ground. If you have an oil tank, connect the R1 B/R wire to a Normaly Closed relay (to ground) and wire the RZ oil sender to Open the relay.
    5. Connect the R1 G/W wire to the 1K ohm resistor and then connect the resistor to ground. This will effectively disable the fuel light on the R1 cluster.
    6. Connect the R1 Y wire to the same place the RZ cluster connected it's Y wire near the headlight connector. (High Beam light)
  4. Power
    1. Connect an RZ Br wire (several to choose from) to the R1 Br wire. (Switched 12v)
    2. Splice into the RZ R wire just below the ingition switch connector and connect it to the R1 R/G wire. (Unswitched 12v) If you are running a BattPac or something similar, then you can connect this wire to a Br wire on the RZ. You will loose the ability to keep trip meters and use the clock function of the cluster though.
    3. Connect the RZ L/W wire to the R1 L wire. (meter back lights)
    4. Connect an RZ B wire (again, several to choose from) to the R1 B wire. (Switched 12v)
  5. Temp Sensor

    I left the R1 temp sensor wires intact. There was enough length to reach the top of the cylinder head and still be able to plug the R1 harness into the cluster. The R1 temp sensor is a direct bolt in to the RZ's head. Just remove the original RZ temp sensor and install the R1 temp sensor in it's place.
The cost of the above parts are:

2001 R1 cluster - $125.00 (eBay)
2001 R1 temp sensor - $26.00 (Motogrid - Yamaham)
2001 R1 upper wiring harness - $20.00 (eBay)
Cherry Speed Sensor - $36.00 (Digikey)
Misc wire and connectors - ~$10.00

Total $197.00

Not bad, IMHO, for a nice compact light weight modern instrument cluster for your RZ. Especially for those of you fitting late model front ends that don't have speedo gears.

Steve
Last edited by smurph on Thu Jan 18, 2007 2:05 am, edited 5 times in total.

T.RexRacing

#2 Post by T.RexRacing » Mon Aug 08, 2005 5:01 pm

Great write-up.How 'bout some pics of the install?I am trying real hard to leave the RZ alone as far as the suspension/swinger go but it's hard owning a bike like the Aprilia.makes the RZ's age very apparent every time I ride it.Dammit!

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#3 Post by fastrz » Mon Aug 08, 2005 10:34 pm

smurph, you remind me of my favorite all-time detective Buddy.. Colombo. :D great perseverance ,and a heck of a nice job by you. :D :D

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#4 Post by Davidj » Mon Aug 08, 2005 10:46 pm

Very interesting, good work. What wattage 1K resistor did you get? And do you have a pic of the dash mounted?

thanks, Dave

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#5 Post by smurph » Tue Aug 09, 2005 5:12 am

As requested, more pics. Thanks for the positive comments. Maybe this will help others do this mod. There was a lot of "mystery" that I had to wade through. Now it seems so simple. Funny how that is, after the fact!

I used a 1/4 watt 1K ohm resistor for the fuel light "shutup" circuit.

A close up of the R1 harness to RZ harness connection.

Image

A pic of the tach in action!

Image

Here is a pic of the master cylinder hose fitting that I made. It's off-topic, but I was taking pictures, you know... :) Did you know you can't buy this fitting? To get it, you have to buy the whole master cylinder @ ~$60.00. I made it out of a 3/8" nipple to 1/2" NPT nylon elbow that I turned down in the lathe. I then made an aluminum washer to capture it under the snap ring. $2.49 at Lowes. That lathe is fast paying for itself! :) I'm quite proud of this fitting. I'm gonna put that $60.00 toward a set of Lomas pipes now.

Image

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#6 Post by Davidj » Tue Aug 09, 2005 1:55 pm

I see now, that resistor is for the fuel light. Thats pretty cool as I have that R1 sending unit from the 01' tank I hacked up to modify my RZ tank. I actually welded the flange for the sending unit in my RZ tank and I was going to hook up a LED light to it to tell me when it was low. But it looks like it would work perfect with the R1 dash. 8)

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#7 Post by smurph » Tue Aug 09, 2005 2:12 pm

Cool! Do you have pics? I had thought about doing something like that and I would want to do that before I paint the tank.

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#8 Post by Davidj » Tue Aug 09, 2005 5:13 pm

Here's a bottom view, one is for the R1 level sender the other is for the R1 petcot.

Image
Last edited by Davidj on Tue Aug 09, 2005 8:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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#9 Post by smurph » Tue Aug 09, 2005 6:10 pm

I dont see anything but an angel fire logo. :(

Steve

MBoyett220

Speedo

#10 Post by MBoyett220 » Tue Aug 09, 2005 6:32 pm

That is a cool setup. How do you adjust/calibrate the speedo? Michael

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Re: Speedo

#11 Post by smurph » Tue Aug 09, 2005 7:17 pm

MBoyett220 wrote:That is a cool setup. How do you adjust/calibrate the speedo? Michael
Who cares about the speedo calibration? Who needs a speedometer anyway? It's the engine speed that is important! :)

Seriously though, there is a black box available that is basically a pulse multiplier or divider called a SpeedoHealer. It's ~$85.00 for the universal splice in version. It's original use was intended to recalibrate stock electric speedos on bikes like the R1 when their owners changed tire sizes or sprocket gearing.

I haven't checked how accurate the speed reading is now with any formal tests, but from just just riding around I'd say it's reading a little slow. Like when I'm doing what I think is about 45 MPH, the speedo is reading 40. It's not far off, so it's well withing the range of the SpeedoHealer's capabilities of correction (which is 100% change in either direction for their version 3 product).

In theory, all one would have to do to increase the speed reading is increase the number of teeth that the speed sensor counts per revolution of the counter shaft. This could be accomplished by machining a custom gear and attaching it to the end of the counter shaft and repositioning the sensor to read it instead of the sprocket. The problem is that it would be a lot of machining to come up with the right tooth count for any given combination of sprocket gearing and tire size. If I knew how many teeth were on the R1's speed reference gear, I could deduce the number of teeth needed for my RZ via a calculation of final drive ratios and tire sizes. But they say that the speedo on any given R1 can be off by as much as 10% anyway. So I'm going to go the SpeedoHealer route. Less headaches and I detest math.

But... the SpeedoHealer will be the last thing I purchase for this bike as the speedo does work and I can just figure some key speeds like 45, 55, 65, and 70 are and I'll o.k. for a while. Lomas pipes are coming first! :)

Steve

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#12 Post by beebe » Wed Aug 10, 2005 12:22 am

You could deduce the number of teeth needed by comparing indicated speed to true speed. The percentage more teeth needed will be the the percentage difference.

Here is a thought, mabey Yamaha built in some sort of programming option for different size tires, like a bike speedo. Probably not, but may be worth a try.

Great instructions by the way, NICE hack!!!

=stan

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#13 Post by smurph » Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:14 pm

Well... The R1 temp sensor came in today. It's a direct fit in the RZ head. (You gotta love Yamaha. They use so many of the same sized holes, bolts, and thread sizes.) I modified the above HOWTO to reflect accordingly.

Now I can read the temp and actually know what the temp is and not just a mysterious position of the needle on a gauge.

Steve

carl

2001 R1 Speedometer HOWTO

#14 Post by carl » Tue Aug 23, 2005 1:44 pm

Your how to article is great! It has given me a kick in the rear to finish my many year old project.

Will it work for a R6 dash too? If not, what year R1 dashes can I use?

Thanks,
Carl

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Re: 2001 R1 Speedometer HOWTO

#15 Post by smurph » Tue Aug 23, 2005 4:34 pm

carl wrote:Your how to article is great! It has given me a kick in the rear to finish my many year old project.

Will it work for a R6 dash too? If not, what year R1 dashes can I use?

Thanks,
Carl
I would imagine the the R6 clusters would be very similar. Just source an R6 temp sensor instead of the R1's But there may be differences in the sensor requiring you to make and install an in-line temp sensor fitting into the upper radiator hose.

I know the 2000 and 2001 R1 clusters will work with the above steps. The 98-99 R1 clusters will work to but you retain the RZ's temp sensor. Other than that, your guess is as good as mine.

Now, go finish your project!!! :) Oh, and be sure to post it up so that we can all drool over it.

Steve

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