RZ/RD 350 & Misc. 2-Stroke Tech BBS

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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 2:02 pm 
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Location: Houston texas
Looks more like stills from the "panning for gold" show.
catastrophic failure at max rpm,renders that to parts motor ,i would think. :smt022
poor kawi triple :smt037

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350LC,Athena 392 big bore,stock porting,swiss cheese air box,stock reeds,spec11 pipes.
She might not be pretty but she will always be a fun ride

1973 KAWI 500 H1 (sold)
1982 YAMA RD350LC
2000 KAWI 200 KDX
2004 BMW R1150RT


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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 3:08 pm 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Just put it all back together. It should run on the other Two. Anyone want to buy a bike from me?!

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PostPosted: Wed May 10, 2017 11:33 pm 
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I don't even know if 'spectacularly catastrophic' covers that. I guess the extra cylinder on a triple helps beat a bad one to death twice as fast as a twin could.
Interesting to see the Wolf pipes next to Toomeys, they look very similar. I met Gary Wolf a few times back in the late '80s, he built the exhaust for a Formula SAE car I was working on. Interesting guy, and a very good fabricator.


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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2017 2:36 am 
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RuZty wrote:
I don't even know if 'spectacularly catastrophic' covers that. I guess the extra cylinder on a triple helps beat a bad one to death twice as fast as a twin could.
Interesting to see the Wolf pipes next to Toomeys, they look very similar. I met Gary Wolf a few times back in the late '80s, he built the exhaust for a Formula SAE car I was working on. Interesting guy, and a very good fabricator.

Damned near identical Russ!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 1:24 pm 
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Hi Off Road,

you have made an excessive research about FZ600 swing arm. Great work !

Im in the process of installing a FZ600 swinger with early R6 shock and keeping 18” rear wheel.

Is there a way from you spreadsheet to find out for my setup the length for the dog bones ?

Thanx,

Alex


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 11:51 pm 
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Hey Alex.

Yes, the spreadsheet can do that.

The spreadsheet calculates the Ride Height Decrease that you get when you install an FZ600 Swingarm and FZ600 dogbones.
You can then adjust the length of the dogbone, until you regain all of your ride height.

The ride height decrease that you get also depends on how long the shock is.
I would need to know the length of the R6 shock, from center to center of the eyelets, in millimeters.

The spreadsheet also calculates Rear Wheel Travel and how much force on the rear wheel, is needed to compress the shock.
Shortening the dogbones will Reduce Rear Wheel Travel, and it will Increase the amount of force that is required to compress the shock.
The result (according to the spreadsheet), is that the suspension is stiffer during the last half of the shock travel.

In order to see how the R6 shock compresses when force is applied to the wheel, I would need to know the spring rate for the R6 shock.

Hera's a link to a post I made showing the following spreadsheets:

RZ with Stock RZ Shock, Swingarm, and Dogbones
RZ with Stock RZ Shock, FZ600 Swingarm, and FZ600 Dogbones.
RZ with Ohlins Shock, FZ600 Swingarm, and FZ600 Dogbones.

It also shows how my calculated results compare to actual measurements made on the bike.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4050&start=1200


If you're interested in playing with the spreadsheet yourself, you can download a copy of it from this thread.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11341


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 3:27 pm 
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Location: Alberta, Canada
March 29, 2017 – My new stroker motor was finished and ready to install.

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April 18, 2017 – The rolling chassis had been cleaned, and polished.

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June 11, 2017 – The rolling chassis has been moved from the shop to my garage.

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And the motor’s been relocated to the basement.

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Felt bad for ignoring the bike, so the following day, I spent a few hours and put the motor back into the frame, and then I pressure tested it again.

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It passed again, so I hooked up the rad and coolant lines and called it a day.

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 3:31 pm 
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Yesterday, I went for a ride with a few guys from work.
When I got home, I figured I’d work on the project bike for a bit.

Went into the garage, and the first thing I notice is a fresh puddle of oil on the floor under my bike.
Interesting, because I haven’t put any tranny oil in the motor yet.
Looked a bit closer and confirmed what I already knew. It was 2 stroke oil that was dripping.

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I checked all the hoses on the pump, and they were all sealed and dry. Damn.
My next thought was that it was my oil pump seal leaking oil into the tranny and then out from the clutch cover gasket.
Did I put the oil seal in backwards? Can you put it in backwards?
The seals kinda multi-directional. It keeps 2 stroke oil confined to one side, and tranny oil on the other.

The leaking seal bummed me out. Now I have to disconnect rad hoses and oil lines, pull the clutch cover, pull the oil pump, change the seal and put it all back together.

But what really pissed me off was that my brand new oem clutch cover gasket wasn’t keeping the 2T oil inside the engine. WTF?

Grabbed some tools and a trouble light, got down on the floor and prepared to have at the job.
With the bright light in my hand, and my nose about 6” from the pump, I saw oil sitting in the cover underneath the pump.
When I looked closer, I could see oil on the bottom of the pump, and I followed the line of oil across the bottom of the pump and up the side to the….oil drain screw.
It seems that I forgot to tighten the silly thing. Oops my bad.

With that crisis averted, I finished setting up the carbs.
Installed new 430 main jets, new 25 pilot jets, and put the needle clip in the 4th grove, with a washer under the clip.
Gotta start somewhere with the jetting.

As far as I know, there are only 3 things left to do before I can start the engine.
Install the pipes
Put some oil in the transmission.
Fill the rad with coolant.

:smt026


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 3:33 pm 
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But, I have another problem.
I’ve installed a set of shortened FZ600 dogbones on this bike. This raised the rear ride height of the bike by a bit over 1”.
It also moved the rear Master cylinder up and further away from the rear caliper.
This makes my rear brake line tighter than a fiddle string.
I’ve got a couple of longer lines, just need to get one of them installed.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 26, 2017 8:38 pm 
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So very detailed oriented! Nice looking bike. You are right that rear line is very tight! If you need a line I am installing a single on the TZR so will have a spare. Let me know!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 30, 2017 6:25 am 
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Hi, thanx for the reply.
Right now in the mess with all kind of stuff, will come back to this ..

Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 3:35 am 
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Off Road wrote:
As far as I know, there are only 3 things left to do before I can start the engine.
Install the pipes
Put some oil in the transmission.
Fill the rad with coolant.
:smt026

OK, 3 things to do before starting the engine. I guess that was more or less correct.
However, the actual To-Do List was a bit more involved.
Since posting that remark, I’ve done the following:

Installed and bled a new rear brake line.

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Torqued down the nut on the front drive sprocket.
Adjusted the chain, tightened the rear axle and brakes.
Installed the kick-starter and oil pump cover.
Installed the sprocket cover and shift lever.
Installed the air filter.
Installed the front fender.
Tightened the front brakes, front axle, and speedo cable
Filled the rad with coolant, put oil in the tranny,
and installed the black triangular covers in the frame.

Image


My To-Do list is getting shorter. Or my memory’s getting shorter. Or both.
But, there's really not that much left to do.

Install the pipes and a gas tank – and I should be able to start it.

Install the seat, side panels, rear cowl and license plate – and I should be able to ride it up and down the street.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 1:17 am 
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The bike is all back together.
The stroker motor has been installed.
The carbs were ultrasonic cleaned, have new jets.
The K&N air filter was cleaned and re-oiled.
The pipes are on, the clutch has been adjusted, the oil pump’s been bled.
And it has fresh transmission oil and coolant.
I just have to turn the key On, and kick it over until it starts.
It’s ready to go.

It’s been ready for over 2 weeks, and I still haven’t started it. Not really sure why.

It might be because I don’t want to ride the Bike because it’s not Finished.
I still need to get the new tires put on. I want to get the EGT gauge installed.
And I wouldn’t mind getting it painted. Any color, as long as it’s not purple.

If you start riding it before it’s finished, it will never get finished.



Another theory is that it’s because of money.
Do I really need an expensive new motor for this bike?
The old motor made 60 HP and ran great.
I could put it back in the bike and sell the stroker motor and pipes.

If a person was looking to build this motor right now, it would cost $4000 to $5000 Can ($3200 to $4000 US).
(Depending on what part of Canada that you live in, how well you know the parts guy at local bike shop, and how much you pay for shipping on EBay items)
And that doesn’t include the time to disassemble, clean, paint, polish, reassemble & test the engine.

- Used Motor - $300-$500
- Stroker Crank - $500-$650
- 795 Pistons -$200-$250
- Stroker Head - $100-$150
- Ported Cylinders - $650-$750
- Cylinder Boring - $150-$250
- EBC clutch & springs - $100-$150
- Arrow Oil Pump - $130-$150
- All new OEM Gaskets, Seals and Reeds - $400-$500
- Chrome Plated Pipes -$1200-$1500
- Rebuilt carbs $100
- Toomey Y-Boot & Filter $100

Currently, the motor & pipes are all brand new, and should be worth a pretty good dollar.

If I start it, I turn all my expensive, go-fast components into a pile of used parts.



It’s also possible that I haven’t started the motor due to fear and good judgment.
I’m not a mechanic.
I have no training or education.
I have very limited experience building modified, high performance 2-stroke engines.
And I have even less experience tuning them.
It would kinda suck if I blew up the new motor, because I did something stupid (or forgot to do something important).

If you really don’t want it to blow up, then don’t start it.


Option A – Do the responsible thing. Don’t take any chances. Sell the motor while it’s still worth something. Use the money to pay off some bills.

Option B – Do the selfish thing. Live a little. Fire it up. Enjoy the power. Ride it like I stole it. Have some fun.

Life’s full of tough choices. I’ll let you know how it goes.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 3:06 am 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
You'll have to wait until we dyno Lee's RZ tomorrow. If it's more than 60 bhp, you have to make your striker a bunch of used parts to top the +60.

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