Rear wheel spacer or collar

[Hahndo]

Greetings,
I am looking for a 1986 or later RD350LC rear wheel spacer that goes between the drive sprocket hub and the swingarm part number 90387156L5-00.
If I cant find one? Does anybody know the thickness of it, so I can make one?

[crogthomas]

I made a aluminium one recently and measured it thus:
OD 32mm
ID 15.1mm
Width 14.9mm

This was for a UK F2 model, with the fully box section swinging arm.

[Hahndo]

Thank you very much for the specs, much appreciated! I bought a 1984 RZ 350L and it has the later swingarm. The wheel bearings are wore out. New All Balls bearing and seal kit will be here tomorrow. I just dont believe wore out bearings would allow the sprocket hub to wiggle in every direction? I seen where the later swingarm uses a different spacer. I thought that might be part of my problem? I have new rubber dampers coming with the bearing kit. When I install the new parts if there is still too much movement I will make a new spacer. Now that I have your specs, I will compare them to the spacer I removed? With the caliper removed everything moved. Maybe its just loose bearings? Thanks again for your info...

[Hahndo]

Friend I measured my spacer. The OD and ID are the same but the thickness is 14.81 . So one thing for sure. It is less. I thought maybe the axle was loose but it had 100 ftlbs of torque so, let me see what new bearings do? Then, well get some bar stock and mill me a spacer. That boxed swingarm doesnt seem to have any flex in it at all.

[crogthomas]

I wouldn't put too much relevance on the spacer being different to mine. They certainly aren't precision machined and have been zinc plated, plus will have 40 years of corrosion on them by now. I've just gone out and re-measured mine with a digital caliper and got between 14.84 and 14.87mm at various points.
Any difference in thickness (certainly less than 0.1mm) would easily be taken up by the clamping force of the axle nut.

[Hahndo]

Thanks for more input. Mine measured 14.81 and the thickest side of 14.84. as for wear there is some on the bearing side some ring from the seal surface. My new bearing kit should be here in the next couple of hours. In the mean time seeing this bike came from the Florida coast, I have grease and sand, dirt too, probably to be cleaned from wheel and sprocket hub before I can put new bearings and seals and new rubber cushions or dampers in the wheel. I will give a update this evening.

[Hahndo]

Ok guys, I removed the wheel bearings and bearing spacer from the wheel. My Yamaha shop manual showes a vague pic of a spacer that goes against tube spacer on the rotor side of the wheel. Here is what was in the wheel. It looks like a dust or maybe a heat shield but no spacer. The hat or shield went to the rotor side of the wheel. Nothing else between the bearings. Is this correct tube spacer? Am I missing a additional spacer?

[Hahndo]

I have done a few wheel bearings on dirt bikes. This is my first for a mag wheel on a street bike. I expected to see a lock ring on 1 bearing to position the bearings in the wheel. Doesnt seem to be anything like that on this RZ wheel? It seems you have to bottom them in the machined recess in the wheel?

[brrrappp]

When the bearings are in the wheel and the tube is between the bearings inside the wheel, the tube-style spacer should be snug against the ID of the wheel bearings. Thiskeeps the bearings from being crushed when you tighen the axle.
I think that disc on the tube is just there so the spacer tube will stay toward the center while you are inserting the axle. Otherwise it might be hard to get the spacer to lineup with the bearing.

[silverstrom]

If I understand what you are saying, you're thinking the tube and the bit you call the "hat or dust shield" attached to it are one assembly and you are missing a spacer? I think you may be misunderstanding the assembly. The part you call the hat or dust shield is the spacer. They are actually 2 separate pieces.

They are #3 and #4 on the parts list for for all model years. Part number 90387-154A0 for the collar (tube) for all model years. Part number 2R6-25115-00 for the flange spacer for all model years except the US 1985, which is listed as 146-25115-00-00. Both flange spacer part numbers are valid and both can be found available online as separate items under those two part numbers, although the 2R6-25115-00 part number now supersedes to 146-25115-00-00. I'm not certain what the difference would be between the two part numbers, but I suspect it may be just a different material or coating on the material. The 1985 flange spacer for other countries (F1 & N1) is 2R6-25115-00.

1985 US rear wheel parts list https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-rz350-1985 ... /E-09.html

1986 rear wheel parts list https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-rd350lc-19 ... /0029.html

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamah ... 5115-00-00

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamah ... 5115-00-00

[Hahndo]

I think you are most definitely right. I thought about the assembly quite a bit last night. What brought my search into a possible problem was adjusting the chain. I noticed the sprocket hub moving about sae . 160 in every direction in the wheel. You could grasp the sprocket and chain with 2 fingers and it moved in every direction in the wheel hub. The first thing I checked was axle nut torque.Then the bearings had the seal covers removed and grease everywhere. Funny thing is the bearings moved smoothly in the dark brown grease every where. Well I got a All Balls wheel bearing kit and installed them with new seals after a thourough cleaning of the wheel. Today I will install the wheel with new cushions or dampers and just see what I end up with? I have never seen a sprocket hub assembly move like that even with no rubber dampers? The cushions or dampers were really not that bad, but I figured while I am in there replace them. Now one thing I havent mentioned. The spacer that goes inside of the sprocket hub bearing and separates the inner bearing. It appears ok. It has wear patterns on it but nothing that stood out a excessively worn. The bike has the later swingarm which is boxed all the way to the ends. Hence my inquiry of the spacers? It has what I think is a Fox shock with a remote can? The swing arm is tight into the frame. The loose sprocket hub is the cause of my problem and my attempt of repairing it.

[evan_calgary]

The sprocket hub assembly shouldn't move on you. Something is amuk. All the parts are there according to the parts diagram? Is the spacer inside the carrier present? Part 16 on below

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists ... 9_72da.gif

[Hahndo]

Well folks. I put the wheel back together with allballs bearing kit with its new seals. New cushions from Economy Cycle. I mounted the wheel in swingarm. No play none at all. The bearings that come out were koyo's. I went to ride it the battery was dead no gas in the tank. So a gallon of 93 and put my charger on the lithium battery. My smart charger says battery is good which isnt right it takes about 30 minutes and battery is so low it wont light the lights or dash. So I need to buy a battery. But the wheel seems tight but a couple of wheelies up the street may show more problems? I got a lot going on right now with one of my other 3 bikes, so it maybe a few weeks before I order another battery and see what a test ride will do? But I can say the the sprocket carrier with new bearings, seals and cushions seems to have corrected the problem? Right now I am waiting on parts for my H1 triple that I am going to take to Deals Gap in a few weeks. Maybe with some luck I can take this RZ 350 to Deals Gap next year? I think maybe, not sure but it may have had the wrong bearings in it? They were the same OD and ID, but I didnt measure their thickness? But all went together quite well. One thing is for sure the sprocket with 2 fingers doesnt wiggle side to side with over a hundred thousands of slop. Seeing they are ball bearings I guess the ones in the sprocket carrier and the middle one in the hub could have been worn so much it could have allowed the carrier to wiggle that much? I will get a battery in it in a few weeks and ride it and give a final update.
Thanks guys for all of your knowledge and help.

[waltmil]

Kind of hate for you to toss the lithium battery as it probably just needs a proper charge. FWIW, it will run fine without a battery but the power valves won't cycle at key on. good luck.

[silverstrom]

Kind of hate for you to toss the lithium battery as it probably just needs a proper charge. FWIW, it will run fine without a battery but the power valves won't cycle at key on. good luck.

There are warnings in the manuals about burning out diodes in the stator if you run the engine without a battery, or a battery eliminator (large capacitor) to take the load.