RZ/RD 350 & Misc. 2-Stroke Tech BBS

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 5:53 pm 
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Here's a little closer view of the shock bottom and cut off bits.


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IMG_2556.JPG
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 5:55 pm 
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When I thread the eyelet in as far as I can, I get to here. My measurement method here is imprecise, I simply pushed a drift and an exacto knife handle through the two holes, but it comes out to about 11.5", which is about 292 mm. Close enough to the RZ shock length to suit me.


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IMG_2558.JPG [ 57.48 KiB | Viewed 650 times ]
IMG_2557.JPG
IMG_2557.JPG [ 53.35 KiB | Viewed 650 times ]

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 6:02 pm 
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It would be pretty cool to retain the locking nut. And I think I could do that if I could manage to get it to thread right up to the base of the eyelet. It won't do that right now, and I'm not sure if it can be done. I'm going to talk to my machinist buddy about it.
Also, there's quite a bit of unthreaded hole, as noted earlier in this thread, into which the eyelet could be threaded a bit further. It looks like the "bolt" is M 16 x 1.00. Naturally, I don't have that tap in my collection. I'm going to see if I can find that size in a bottoming tap and tap the rest of the hole.
Not sure how to lock it. I'd prefer not to weld it, but I'm thinking of using red loctite with some JB weld externally, where it can be chiseled away later. It may be possible to add a nylock, but I don't know how.


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IMG_2560.JPG
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89 Canadian Spec RD-350
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1999 Fantic K'Roo
1972 Turbo-Charged 240Z
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 6:11 pm 
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By the way, does anyone know how the rebound damping adjustment works? It's sitting out there all by itself at the bottom of the shock, and I can't imagine how it regulates oil flow.

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89 Canadian Spec RD-350
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2007 Harley XL1200C Sportster
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1972 Turbo-Charged 240Z
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 6:28 pm 
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You could get your machinist buddy to cut the thickness down on the jam nut to get it to fit, just go easy tightening it. The jam nut preloads the thread, since it is loaded cyclically in tension. No amount of JB weld will achieve that. Did you try the shock adjusted to minimum length before you cut it? I found the extra length of an R6 shock benefitted my bike as I was grounding out in corners with the (admittedly well flailed) stock shock.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:33 pm 
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That'll be plan "B". I'm going to stop at a local nut & bolt place and see if I can find a thin 16 x 1 nut, and I've ordered a cheap Chinese tap and die. I've never needed that size in the past, so I'm hopeful the cheap-o will do the trick. I found a "thin" nut on eBay, but it's 8 mm thick, about what the stock part is.
I have an R6 shock in good shape as well, I've just been hesitant to cut the frame of my bike. I'm hopeful that the R1 shock will be, at least, an improvement over the ancient stock unit.

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89 Canadian Spec RD-350
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1999 Fantic K'Roo
1972 Turbo-Charged 240Z
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:28 pm 
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The top end of the shock is more complicated than simply pressing in a couple of bushings, darn it. I took the stock bearing out of the top of the shock, and found a couple of surprises. First, there's a circlip in there holding the bearing in position. (I found that out when I applied a lot of hydraulic pressure and the bearing didn't move.) Secondly, the existing bearing and bushings can pivot a few degrees to allow for some pivot in the shock.
I don't see a way to simply replace bushings, but I'm open to suggestions. Instead, it appears to me that the only reasonable way to put the RZ top bolt through the R1 shock is to bore the existing bushings from 10mm to 12mm. The problem with that is that the total diameter of the existing bushings is 14 mm, which will leave just 2 mm of metal after boring. Is that enough? I guess I'll find out.


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File comment: The existing bushing/ bearing is multi-piece,
IMG_2563.JPG
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:30 pm 
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Here are a couple of pictures that attempt to show how the bushings and bearing can pivot inside the shock body.


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File comment: Pivoting bearing / bushing
IMG_2568.JPG
IMG_2568.JPG [ 43.79 KiB | Viewed 585 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:34 pm 
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And finally, this is the McMaster Carr / Economy Cycle (I bought from Economy Cycle) bushing. I'm just holding it up into the shock bore, but clearly this ain't gonna work.


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89 Canadian Spec RD-350
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1972 Turbo-Charged 240Z
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 2:35 pm 
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But at least he EC bushings will fit into the lower shock eyelet!


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89 Canadian Spec RD-350
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2000 Kawasaki KDX
1999 Fantic K'Roo
1972 Turbo-Charged 240Z
Zastava Black Arrow .50 BMG
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 3:48 pm 
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I assume you mean the reduced diameter of the bushing (ie. the shock bearing ID) is 14mm. When installed it will have the upper shock bolt in the ID and the bearing on the OD so it will be fine. I also assume you have included the o-ring groove as your 14mm minimum diameter or it might come apart there. When I had Penske rebuild one of their shocks and adapt it to use in the RZ with an RGV swingarm they supplied stepped bushings to make it work, you might find something similar on their website or catalogue.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 4:58 pm 
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Unfortunately, the measurement is less the o-ring groove. I didn't measure the groove, but it's going to be a close shave.

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2013 BMW R1200RT
2007 Harley XL1200C Sportster
2000 Kawasaki KDX
1999 Fantic K'Roo
1972 Turbo-Charged 240Z
Zastava Black Arrow .50 BMG


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 6:36 pm 
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When I was done with this mod on a 2015 R1 shock, the eye bolt was this long.

Image

Only cut 4mm off the shock body, leaving a good amount of threads inside. The eye bolt bottoms out when fully screwed into the shock (on the bottom of the bolt, not on the outer eye). Can tighten the eye bolt as much as needed and will stay in alignment with the top mount. No locknut. Will add some blue locktight.

I noticed the upper bushings from economy cycle are a different size. I think for an R6 shock or early R1 type.

Didn't touch the top mount. Just using a 10mm bolt, like the R1.

Image

Recently posted this info in my build thread.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2018 6:44 pm 
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Doh! The simple solutions are almost always the BEST solutions. I didn't even think of using a 10 mm bolt at the top, good thinking, Smoker, and thanks for the input! Did you have to do any shimming or bushing with the 10 mm bolt to mate properly with the frame?

The EC bushings are for an R6 shock, but I followed the lead of an earlier poster on the thread. I have an R6 shock so perhaps they won't go to waste.

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89 Canadian Spec RD-350
2013 BMW R1200RT
2007 Harley XL1200C Sportster
2000 Kawasaki KDX
1999 Fantic K'Roo
1972 Turbo-Charged 240Z
Zastava Black Arrow .50 BMG


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2018 4:25 pm 
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Darrell wrote:
....... Did you have to do any shimming or bushing with the 10 mm bolt to mate properly with the frame?


I hope so, the stock bolt is shouldered for a reason. At least sleeve it to 12mm outboard of the shock so the bolt isn't flopping around the hole.


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