Timing check 84 RZ350 and cooling issues

[75RD350rider]

Will I be able to tell if someone put a 4 degree advanced key or key way in an RZ 350 without pulling the rotor with a timing light? My Canadian RZ runs too warm for my liking after 20 minutes or so of operation. It gets to 200 indicated on my aftermarket indicator. It doesn't go past 205 and my R1 fan cools it off. I have an aftermarket Chinese radiator and water pump was rebuilt. Plug readings show it is a bit rich if anything. I am running VM28 air cooled RD350 carbs with 290 mains, 30 pilots and the needles all the way rich with Uni Pod filters and it carburetes well. The odd thing about all this is that with the stock radiator (which I replaced 2 days before the Deals Gap meet this year because it leaked ) I never saw temperature above 180. In comparison my other RZ never goes above 180 no matter how hard I run it unless I am setting still in traffic for a prolonged period and the fan cools it off immediately. My other RZ has a stage 1 Spec 2 top end with the head shaved 30 thousandths and Spec 2 modified VM30 carbs.
The Canadian RZ has unknown non stock porting and unknown if the head has been modified. It actually pulls harder than my other RZ. So back to my original question I am trying to figure out if someone modified the timing and if this could cause the engine to run hotter than what I would consider normal? I have since gotten a good stock radiator that I am going to install to see if that cures it.

[tacky1]

You can tell with a timing light, I would check the squish, mine had the same prob and it was the head machined for race gas, damn thing drove me nuts, I swapped out everything and then did the solder test.. Got the head machined to 1mm and never looked back.

[75RD350rider]

Thanks. I will check the timing 1st. I appreciate the reply.

[kpke]

It it only got to 180 with the stock rad and 200 plus with the aftermarket...PIA but put the stock one back on and check again???

Different subject. What was the non KOSO you used on this one Tim? Need a round aftermarket for another build.

[75RD350rider]

It is Daytona Velona. It was 1/2 the price of a Koso and the only thing it doesn't have is a temp gauge. I used a Norxi temp gauge.

[75RD350rider]

I put the Spec2 pipes and the stock radiator on yesterday afternoon and what a difference. I flogged it pretty hard for 20 miles in 90 degree weather and it never got above 185 except in stop and go traffic. The fan cooled it down immediately. I will know for sure when I take it out on the interstate. It is way better.

[thumper580]

I put the Spec2 pipes and the stock radiator on yesterday afternoon and what a difference. I flogged it pretty hard for 20 miles in 90 degree weather and it never got above 185 except in stop and go traffic. The fan cooled it down immediately. I will know for sure when I take it out on the interstate. It is way better.

What fan did you use???

[75RD350rider]

R1 Yamaha

[silverstrom]

Many here use the 1999-2002 R6 fan. That's what I have on mine. Fits fine with no clearance issues.

[75RD350rider]

Sorry I forgot to include the year.

[75RD350rider]

https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/inde ... pic=4959.0

About midway through shows how I did mine.

[75RD350rider]

Put 50 miles on it on Friday.20 on Saturday. Ran hard 80-90 MPH on curvy back roads and temperature ran 185-190. Took it out on the interstate and it had a burble right at the transition trying to hold steady speed 1/8 to 1/4 throttle in 6th 6200-6500 RPM 70-75 MPH. How dare I try to ride it like a normal motorcycle! Above and below that perfect. Air temperature was 80 degrees. Airscrews are 1.0 turns out VM28 RD350 air-cooled carbs. 290 main jets, needles all the way rich. 30 pilots. So I decided it was lean right at the transition and took the pods off and put the Yboot with the big Uni filter on it as I am already as rich as I can go on the needle and already tried 32.5 pilots before and they made it too rich. I took it out again yesterday and it is better but ran worse after it warmed up, which tells me it was rich not lean. So I turned the airscrews in to 3/4 to confirm it was rich and it got worse. Turned the airscrews out to 1.25 and the burble is nearly gone and moved closer to 1/8 throttle at 60-65 MPH and 6000 RPM. Of course the air temperature was 10 degrees warmer so it wasn't an optimum jetting day. Long story short. I am cautiously optimistic that the cooling issue is solved and this burble can be worked out or not as it is very minor.

[(F5)]

Looks great. Did you ever look/test the thermostat? In a pot with thermometer. Written on side. Someone could have put a 4 stroke one in there.
But that's a reasonable hot day there!