another rz/fz/fzr

Got a customizing or restoration project? Discuss it here

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Off Road
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#16 Post by Off Road » Sat May 01, 2010 5:57 pm

Yup, yours is definitely shorter. Don't feel bad it's probably genetic. :smt005

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The bottom part of the Works shock is really big.
I had to grind the dog-bones to make them fit.
Also had to notch them so I had access to the Rebound dampening.

Using the Stock FZ600 dog-bones does reduce the ride height.
Another option is to use RZ350 dog-bones and have them shortened.

You might be able to make them a little shorter than Stock FZ600 (depending on shock clearance), and regain some ride height.
smurph wrote:............Now, my setup uses the FZ600 swingarm, the RZ350 relay link, and the RZ350 dog-bones. If you just bolt it all together, the ride height will be too low. This is because the FZ swingarms dog-bone pivots are placed lower on the swingarm than the RZ's. You can correct that by shortening the dog-bones. It does the same thing as a longer shock. I believe I took 34mm out of the dog-bones to get it to the ride height I was looking for. But depending on the rear wheel/tire combo, you may need more or less removed from the dog-bones. So cut them long and work shorter.

Shortening the dog-bones is a pretty simple matter of cutting them in the center, removing the appropriate amount of material from one end, and then welding them back together. They are made of forged steel and weld rather easily............

Steve

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vespaman1
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#17 Post by vespaman1 » Mon May 03, 2010 1:02 pm

Looks like the shortened FZ relay arms has been determined, but on the sprocket carrier just a word of caution. The purpose of a stud is that you don't have to continually remove the stud from the softer cast aluminum each time you change the sprocket. Not that many of use change sprockets often (unless you are racing) but it is very easy to strip the aluminum threads inside the hole if you are placing a bolt in the hole each time....and a pain to fix.

What I did on mine was place the nut on the existing stud first, then use a grinder to grind down the end until it cleared the swinger and was about flush with the nut face, and then back the nut off to restore the thread.

Once that was done I used nylock nuts and haven't had a problem in 2 years.

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kpke
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#18 Post by kpke » Mon May 03, 2010 10:57 pm

Yup, yours is definitely shorter. Don't feel bad it's probably genetic.
Ouch, that hurt!!!

I would just like to find a set of fz ones not modified and see how it works. I am not comfortable shortening and welding rz ones. Hmmm, although I do have some. I did find a whole fz swingarm with everything. I am trying to buy it then I'll sell the swingarm I guess. Would be nice to find just the dog bones. I will keep searching.

Vespaman, thanks. That makes sense. But it seems like for street riding sprocket change outs would be pretty infrequent and it would hold up for several. Maybe use antisieze (?) Maybe do what you did and just shorten the studs and use lock nuts (?).

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kpke
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#19 Post by kpke » Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:46 pm

I have not touched this bike for a long time waiting for proper fz dog bones


:smt003 :smt003 :smt003



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The shock seems to function as it should now!!!

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I still need another set of these "dog bone" parts if anyone has some.

Off Road, if you are out there (I know you had a seizure, sorry to hear about that), what tools did you buy to do all the alu polishing on the purple project? You did alot of polishing seems like in a short amount of time so I am curious what you used.

I need to take this thing all the way down and repolish alu as this bike has sat for many years and the forks and swinger need rework. Also found a powder coater so I will pile up as much stuff as possible to take to him.

It also needs the bushings replaced in the swing arm where the linkages slide in. I think these must be Yamaha parts or can they be made?

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RZResurection
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#20 Post by RZResurection » Sat Aug 28, 2010 11:20 am

kpke wrote: Then I looked a little closer at the links that attach to the swingarm. They have been welded on.
That is a definite problem. I can see from the pictures that the shock is canted forward. It should be sitting parallel (or close) to the brace that sits just behind the shock - that way it shouldn't rub.

kpke wrote:Tomorrow I'll measure them and compare to Off Roads dimensions (thanks), but I am sure they have been shortened. Looks like I'll need replacements.
That's a good idea.

The fun of bastardizing :smt003
Jeff

Trying to build a bike that's as fast as my memories
87 Canadian 1WV
OEM Pipes
Gutted Airbox
VF4 Reeds
Milled Head (0.020")
Main 240
Pilot 27.5
02 R1 Front End
R6 Shock and Rims (180 Rear Tire)
84 FJ1100 Swingarm

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Off Road
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#21 Post by Off Road » Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:23 pm

kpke wrote: I still need another set of these "dog bone" parts if anyone has some.
I also need a set of FZ600 dog-bones.
I used used the ones for my FZ600 swing-arm on my FZR400 swing-arm.

I been looking for a while and just haven't seen any.
Saw several of the linkage (shock to frame) on ebay, but no dog-bones.

Glad you found a set.

As for the polishing. I did it by hand using automotive sand-paper.
Started with 400 grit for the really bad spots.
Then progressed to 800 grit, then 1000 and finally 2000 grit.

After that I used a soft towel and Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish.

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kpke
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#22 Post by kpke » Sat Aug 28, 2010 11:10 pm

Off Road I contacted the kiji (?) seller in Canada for some dog bones. Others on the forum have been referring to him for fz swingarms. He had some and would sell them to me but shipping was too much. Have you tried that guy?

I was hoping for some magic (quick/easy) polishing tricks. Oh well, elbow grease. Or hand parts off to some guy that advertises polishing on CL now and then. Hmmm, maybe, but knowing me I'll get priced out and do it myself.

silverstrom
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#23 Post by silverstrom » Sat Aug 28, 2010 11:46 pm

kpke wrote: I was hoping for some magic (quick/easy) polishing tricks. Oh well, elbow grease. Or hand parts off to some guy that advertises polishing on CL now and then. Hmmm, maybe, but knowing me I'll get priced out and do it myself.
I'm going to try a small powerwheel and a few different metal polishes to see how it goes. Maybe start with a very fine polishing compound and finish with Blue Magic Liquid Metal polish. Cordless drill on low speed to start. It can't hurt to try. It will likely be messy, but has to be easier than paper by hand.

rodeobob
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#24 Post by rodeobob » Sun Aug 29, 2010 7:27 am

I did the silencer on my dirt bike.

It was in very sad order.

Same as Offroad, just worked up to finer grade paper, rubbed wet. (not a very good winter job) Then i had a small drill mounted polishing kit for alloy wheels, i used that in two stages and then hand polished.


Armed with a bag of new muffler packing and a big dose of elbow grease i got into it.
Pulled it appart;
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Paint strippered it and gave it a pannel beat ove a lump of Gal pipe;
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Rubbed and rubbed with wet and dry. It looked like it had been sand blasted;
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Polished it up, repacked it and put it back together, painted the pipe with heat proof paint.
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Its my photogataphy skillz that make it look flash. lol.


Bob.
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rdstars
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#25 Post by rdstars » Sun Aug 29, 2010 9:14 am

Silencer looks good, what and how did you use to polish it?

Billy
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#26 Post by Billy » Sun Aug 29, 2010 10:06 am

Nice job mate. :)

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kpke
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#27 Post by kpke » Sun Nov 21, 2010 1:36 pm

I am pulling this one up to the front of the line. Will try to assemble it this winter. Going backwards first tho.

From this

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to this

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All the rear susp needs to come off so down to bare frame. Have to repolish the swingarm as it sat for 10 years or so and is oxidized. Needs bushings too.

The forks are redone (resanded and repolished, trying to keep up with OffRoad)

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kpke
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#28 Post by kpke » Sun Nov 21, 2010 1:45 pm

Has anyone sent caliper body parts to powder coat?

I am sure some have.

Any problems?

I am scared they are going to get paint where there shouldn't be paint and I know that stuff is difficult to remove. So I'm debating powder, rattle can (will look good for a while, or leave alone. These look OK but far from perfect. Since the bike will be ridden I could just leave as is. Kind of wanted them gold since this bike might be black and gold.

Image

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aaronmvrider
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#29 Post by aaronmvrider » Sun Nov 21, 2010 6:19 pm

just get them sand blasted or hydro blasted and leave it a natural finish
1 x 4mm stroker rz 375cc 1983
1 x 7mm stroker rz 443cc 1984 (under construction)
1 x rz 500
1 x mv agusta 1000

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Off Road
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#30 Post by Off Road » Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:50 pm

kpke wrote: trying to keep up with OffRoad)
You're kidding. right?
I've been trying to keep up with you, ever since I saw pictures of your 83 cleanup/resto.

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