Ron Atchison RZ500 Needles
Moderator: rztom
- aaronmvrider
- Posts: 1401
- Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 7:43 pm
- Location: Central Coast New South Wales
new filter (uni filter)
i couldnt resist i had to have it now
i hope i got the right set up / parts
uni filters are made not far from my home and i took down an ear for fitting and the code is # UP 4060
i do have one more question on the ears where they attatch to carbys i am missing the seals and o rings they want $60 for these any ideas on an alternative ????
i hope i got the right set up / parts
uni filters are made not far from my home and i took down an ear for fitting and the code is # UP 4060
i do have one more question on the ears where they attatch to carbys i am missing the seals and o rings they want $60 for these any ideas on an alternative ????
my rides
rz 500 1984
2 x rz 350 1984
mv agusta f4 1000 2004
rz 500 1984
2 x rz 350 1984
mv agusta f4 1000 2004
-
- Posts: 348
- Joined: Thu Nov 17, 2005 3:35 pm
- Location: Salisbury
Hello,
Don't know wether or not you would have a need for it in Aus, but draft excluder foam tape does the job - The stuff we get in drafty England has a sticky side to it.
Don't know wether or not you would have a need for it in Aus, but draft excluder foam tape does the job - The stuff we get in drafty England has a sticky side to it.
RZV 500R .... I had one for 13 years
Thundercat Brakes.
Stan Stevens Stage 3
BDK ignition
Nikon Pipes .
350 F2 Zeeltronic, kenny's pipes, PWK,s
Thundercat Brakes.
Stan Stevens Stage 3
BDK ignition
Nikon Pipes .
350 F2 Zeeltronic, kenny's pipes, PWK,s
I wish my elephant ears looked that good.
That filter arrangement will add a nice throaty intake sound that fits the bike quite well. Just remember to jet up. Start with 230 mains for 0-0 carbs. And #25 pilots. Otherwise, it's a little anemic off idle and it might buck at cruise speeds. Then do you up a set of Ron's needles and you'll be rocking and rolling.
Steve
That filter arrangement will add a nice throaty intake sound that fits the bike quite well. Just remember to jet up. Start with 230 mains for 0-0 carbs. And #25 pilots. Otherwise, it's a little anemic off idle and it might buck at cruise speeds. Then do you up a set of Ron's needles and you'll be rocking and rolling.
Steve
Fuel Injected RZ350
KEYSTER-Jet?
Hi
My carbs are rebuilt with a KEYSTER-kit (0496) where all parts practically are stock standard # 165 main jet, # 22,5 pilot jet… new floater valves, gaskets. One thing differs a lot though; the needle jets are a lot smaller than my stock ones from 84 (the needles looked like the standards, but I didn’t measure them) It runs much better this way, with the KEYSTER needle-jet. Do you think this is OK to go with? Plugs are fine, perhaps rich, and it takes 0.8 litres per 10 km, inspired driving. Otherwise Im planning to get the 5L1-needles instead…. Anyone having experiance on this needle-jet?
/Lekman
My carbs are rebuilt with a KEYSTER-kit (0496) where all parts practically are stock standard # 165 main jet, # 22,5 pilot jet… new floater valves, gaskets. One thing differs a lot though; the needle jets are a lot smaller than my stock ones from 84 (the needles looked like the standards, but I didn’t measure them) It runs much better this way, with the KEYSTER needle-jet. Do you think this is OK to go with? Plugs are fine, perhaps rich, and it takes 0.8 litres per 10 km, inspired driving. Otherwise Im planning to get the 5L1-needles instead…. Anyone having experiance on this needle-jet?
/Lekman
RD 500, Audi quattro and Borgward Isabella
Re: new filter (uni filter)
I'm running the UNI filters in this configuration as well. It's a tight fit as the filters come together under the tank. I also think the engine is breathing in some really hot air sitting right behind the radiator and right above the motor.aaronmvrider wrote:i couldnt resist i had to have it now
i hope i got the right set up / parts
uni filters are made not far from my home and i took down an ear for fitting and the code is # UP 4060
i do have one more question on the ears where they attatch to carbys i am missing the seals and o rings they want $60 for these any ideas on an alternative ????
Edit: Also using self adhesive weather stripping for the carb seals.
Hello again !
Decided to go for podfilter on the "ears".
To avoid that midrangestumble others have experienced I bought the 5L1-needles.
At first I was a little doutfull to my skills to do the "Ron Atchinson"-modification of the needles. But I didn´t have any other to turn to, so I decided to do it myself......And it wasn´t that hard to do !
Took a regular drill and put the needles in and sanded them gently with 1000 grit paper with oil on them. Only thing that was difficult was to see when the anodizing came of. After that I mesaured the leght of the org. neeldes and cut the new one and sanded them down to exact same leght.
All in all it was not that difficult.....
When I was done with the needles I put them in the carbs, change the mainjet to 220 and mounted the pods on ears.
At first the engine didn´t go on tickover.....so I then change the pilotjet up one size to 25. Then the engine would tickover but struggled to respond on throttleopening on low rews (under 3,5k).
Wasn´t sure but my thoughts was on the needleshights.
But I didn´t know wich way to go....up or down.
Decided to try to give the engine richer mixture i.e raise the needles one step. At this point I had it on the lowest original snap ring groove.
So I bought small washers to put under the snaprings, the washers are 0,5mm and to raise the needles one step I had to lay 2 washers under every snapring.
When I was done I took the bike out for a spin and to my joy the engine now responded well to what every throttleposition, at any rpm
To be sure i was in the right size of mainjet I took the bike out again to a god teststraight and after blasting the bike I shut off and stoped to check the plugs. And they where light chocolatebrown....wich I have learned that it should be god
I´m not a genius when it comes to jetting, so can I do it anyone else can do it. It just a matter of trail an error type of thing.
Really happy with how the bike preformce now.
No low/ midrange stumble, pulls hard from scratch up to (and over) redline.
Regards // Jeppe500
Decided to go for podfilter on the "ears".
To avoid that midrangestumble others have experienced I bought the 5L1-needles.
At first I was a little doutfull to my skills to do the "Ron Atchinson"-modification of the needles. But I didn´t have any other to turn to, so I decided to do it myself......And it wasn´t that hard to do !
Took a regular drill and put the needles in and sanded them gently with 1000 grit paper with oil on them. Only thing that was difficult was to see when the anodizing came of. After that I mesaured the leght of the org. neeldes and cut the new one and sanded them down to exact same leght.
All in all it was not that difficult.....
When I was done with the needles I put them in the carbs, change the mainjet to 220 and mounted the pods on ears.
At first the engine didn´t go on tickover.....so I then change the pilotjet up one size to 25. Then the engine would tickover but struggled to respond on throttleopening on low rews (under 3,5k).
Wasn´t sure but my thoughts was on the needleshights.
But I didn´t know wich way to go....up or down.
Decided to try to give the engine richer mixture i.e raise the needles one step. At this point I had it on the lowest original snap ring groove.
So I bought small washers to put under the snaprings, the washers are 0,5mm and to raise the needles one step I had to lay 2 washers under every snapring.
When I was done I took the bike out for a spin and to my joy the engine now responded well to what every throttleposition, at any rpm
To be sure i was in the right size of mainjet I took the bike out again to a god teststraight and after blasting the bike I shut off and stoped to check the plugs. And they where light chocolatebrown....wich I have learned that it should be god
I´m not a genius when it comes to jetting, so can I do it anyone else can do it. It just a matter of trail an error type of thing.
Really happy with how the bike preformce now.
No low/ midrange stumble, pulls hard from scratch up to (and over) redline.
Regards // Jeppe500
- aaronmvrider
- Posts: 1401
- Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 7:43 pm
- Location: Central Coast New South Wales
Hello aaronvrider !aaronmvrider wrote:you want to make me a set.....
i have pods on ears and 220 mains and standard needles.... have a stumble at 5- 5.5 revs
Had no stumble before....and have no stumble now
Tried that out really thoroughly this afternoon.
Started in fourth gear at really low rews then just open up throttles and let the bike accelerate. Pulls good at low, more then good at medium and when it "hits the pipes" it´s just flying away.
No stumble or heasitating what so ever, at any rews.
At the end of one of the testruns I almost thought the speedo showed wrong, I was well over 200km/h and the bike still was accelerating hard. At a point I was overrewing (11k I think)but it showed no sign to stop rew more. But I prefere not to go over 10,5k...that was just a little mistake from my side....
I think your stumble is realeted to the needles....that the original needle just is to rich(that´s what I been told anyway).
Hmm....like I said before, the needles are not that difficult to do.
Just take it slow and easy and you be fine do it yourself.
Due to I´m not that skilled mecanic I didn´t do new snapring grooves....
I had to lift the needles by washers instead. Worked out fine.
I say...just try it by yourself, like I did !!
Regards // Jeppe
Hiya Aaron, I don't remember what your setup is I've been away from the board way too long to remember. This is my first visit in maybe 6 months.aaronmvrider wrote:you want to make me a set.....
i have pods on ears and 220 mains and standard needles.... have a stumble at 5- 5.5 revs
Your midrange stumble or poor carburation is caused by the stock needles being too rich as Jeppe has said. There is no way to jet it properly with the stock needles. You can jet around it to find a compromise but that will be all. Adding pipes really doesn't affect the carburation all that much, most can get away with a couple jet sizes up on the mains and call it good. When the intake side is altered then it's a new ball game. Two strokes react much more to intake changes and that’s when the stock needles really show their ugly head. If you look at the profile of a stock needle you can see the drastic taper changes in it and that is where it is too rich. What the 5L1 needles change is that they are a much more gradual taper which in turn smooth’s out the mid-range stumble. We were able to do the mod and jet Jeppe's bike in maybe a dozen emails from 6,000 miles away so it's not a very hard mod to do.
The slots are 20 thousands apart. Most bikes respond to the center three slots. So either up one from center or down one from center. If you choose to go the route that Jeppe took which is the easiest if you want to try it before having more slots cut you can start with the middle slot and then tune it from there. If it's too rich then your still good you can drop them one slot. If it is too lean then you will have to raise it one slot and that is where the washers come in. An easy source for them is from a 4 stroke jet kit. Most of them come with 1mm washers to shim the needles. Or you can source the washers to lift the needles the 20 thousands that the next slot down would be. You would have to do the conversion to mm I'm not sure what that would be off hand.
Just follow the directions and if you get stuck do as Jeppe did send me a mail and I'll help you out.
- aaronmvrider
- Posts: 1401
- Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2008 7:43 pm
- Location: Central Coast New South Wales
the 5L1 needle you refer to.... i take it that is the standard neele for rz 500..... i am not a machinist etc.... anyone on the board doing these needles.....
it is a rich area at 5500 revs.... right at cruising speed
pulls like a train once through this area
i have pods on the ears.... lomas pipes.... standard ignition and carbs...
might be time to get the carbs apart and have a go at this....
it really has put me off riding the rz 500...... such a shame...
it is a rich area at 5500 revs.... right at cruising speed
pulls like a train once through this area
i have pods on the ears.... lomas pipes.... standard ignition and carbs...
might be time to get the carbs apart and have a go at this....
it really has put me off riding the rz 500...... such a shame...
my rides
rz 500 1984
2 x rz 350 1984
mv agusta f4 1000 2004
rz 500 1984
2 x rz 350 1984
mv agusta f4 1000 2004