another rz/fz/fzr

[two-stroke-brit]

loving the mc master carr springs and the chain gaurd.
cheers mark

[kpke]

Thanks.

A little before those tricks...

I did ditch the cheap china KOSO copy. Too much effort has gone into this build to use that thing. Some time ago I had dummied up the wiring and lit it up.



And mounted it



I mounted the KOSO on the same squarish bracket and did not like it.



These brackets were made in my not machine shop.



...gotta go, more to follow again

[kpke]

Several adjustments were made to the brackets.







Additional brackets were made to keep the unit from moving fore and aft. These holes were drilled and tapped to attach to the triple.



I want to protect the KOSO from bug splatter so set this on there. Hmmm





I found this on ebay and had no idea if it would work. I really like it.

[kpke]

The wiring had to be sorted

Need to marry this



To this



Don’t use this, it’s been updated.



It lights up and makes pretty colors

[kpke]

On the theme of the KOSO

KOSO BF580000 speed signal converter arrived. It threaded right on to the speedo drive on the FZR front wheel. This eliminates the need for magnets in the rotor bolt heads and the magnetic speed sensor pickup bracket and device. It’s a little cleaner installation. Thanks Martin!!!


10/17/20
Amazon order BF580000 speed signal converter 34.95 free shipping
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T6 ... UTF8&psc=1

10/16/20 KOSO America
Tech support 1-450-359-0604
RX-2 GP Style Multifunction
?RZ350 tach signal pickup - yes, connect to hot side of coil
?Speed Signal Converter
Need to verify thread pitch M12x1.0 then order this
BF580000 speed signal converter 34.95 free shipping


That's installed












And more on the theme of the KOSO...

The KOSO uses it’s own temp sensor on the head.

It has a tapered thread so thread sealing tape is used for the install



More to come...

[kpke]

10/24/20

Fork Oil FZR600 Manual says
Type SAE 10W fork oil
Amount 435cc (14.7 US fl oz)
Oil Level (fully compressed with spring removed) 101mm (3.98 inch)

I started removing the forks to install new seals. Then not knowing what the PO did, I pulled the dust seals up, and all the parts in there appeared brand new. Even the spring clip which is typically very rusty was a new part as was the steel washer. So I decided to not remove the forks because I didn’t want to take apart all the fresh KOSO brackets and flyscreen, etc. Hopefully a good move. Time will tell.

The FZR manual says 10W oil. I have 1L of Bel Ray 5W and 2 liters of Maxima 15W. Thought about mixing them to get less than 15W but online studying say different manufacturers' viscosity ratings on fork oils vary significantly. So if you are going to mix fork oil, use the same brand. So order some 10W or just put in the 15W???


So I had to figure out a way to get the forks vertical at 90 degrees to the floor, unload them, pull the springs and spacers, so I could get the proper amount of fork oil in.

I put it on the lift like this, strapped the rear to prevent a slip accident, unloaded the front end with a lift, then pulled the caps and springs and stuff, then let the front end down.





Put 15w oil in and exercised the forks, then brought the oil level up to 101mm from the top



That’s done

[kpke]

10/30/20
Since I’m not using the tach drive, I needed a tach block off. There are vendors selling real nice ones that replace the plastic tach drive assembly that screws into the case at the top rear. $30 plus for something that really will never be seen seems a bit much. Plus I’ll do the same on other builds so looked for a cheaper solution. After removing the tach drive assembly I found that a ⅜ pipe thread cap will screw on. Not perfect but it fits. So off to the hardware store and I bought a brass ⅜ FIP Pipe Cap for about $6. I removed the gear, used thread sealing tape on the threads on the plastic part, and put an o-ring on to seal the pipe cap. Then screwed the pipe cap down and it seems to seal quite well. We’ll see.







After I did this I was going through a box of parts for this bike and found a “really nice” tach drive block off I purchased and put away. Nice. Nothing like years long MC builds, eh? I guess a while back I didn’t think $30 was too much.

[kpke]

10/31/20
Put in 1.6L Castrol 20-50 (had it in stock) for start up gear oil.
Put in 1.65L Prestone 50/50. Manual says 1.5L but this has China extra capacity(?) radiator. Need to check it after startup and see if it requires more AF.

Put UNI Filter oil on the inner filter of the dual stage foam filters. The outer red foam was left dry. These would have been installed earlier but I need the tach drive solution corrected before installing the air filter pods. Installed pod filters.


11/1/20
To do

Brake fluid. Maybe I will go get some DOT 5. These are fresh rebuilt calipers, new rear MC, rebuilt front MC, new brake lines. Might be a good opportunity to use the fluid that won’t destroy paint if dripped. Several people use the stuff on this forum with good results it seems.

Install master link.

Order and install new tires.

Program KOSO.

Make happy video of startup

Repair some little plastic defects. Repair 2 little dents on tank. Paint bodywork.

[tacky1]

Nice Ken, Shes looking great, Good progress...

[MK]

The KOSO uses it’s own temp sensor on the head.

It has a tapered thread so thread sealing tape is used for the install

Though you "can" screw the conical sensor into the straight head thread, id advise to get the right sensor.
The RD has two different heads that either have a M10x1 or a PT1/8-28 thread which is almost identical (despite the 55/60 deg thread angle and the conicity).
So physically you can use a bit of force and screw it in, but this won't make the thread better...

Koso offers temp sensors with both threads, so if you had a "straight" sensor, get a M10x1 temp sensor like this one :
https://www.kosoeurope.com/zubehoer/sen ... ker?c=3312

[kpke]

11/7/20

Thanks Martin. You keep having me spend more KOSO $$$. On the 500 I know I did not buy another sensor. If it has the same configuration it has worked fine for several years. But I don't recall if it was a tapered sensor going in to non-tapered threads. This one will be easy to keep an eye on so I'll leave it for now.

Bled air out of the oil supply line using a piece of bicycle inner tube tie wrapped on to the oil tank. Using very low pressure compressed air it bleeds the air out in seconds.









Bled rear brake system with DOT 5. This is a new reservoir, new line to the MC, new MC, new Venhill line to the caliper, and rebuilt caliper.




Bled front system with DOT 5. Rebuilt FZR MC, new Venhill brake lines, and rebuilt calipers. Unfortunately this appears to be a fail. Maybe due to the bike sitting for many years. O-rings dried up maybe??? I’ve gotten fluid through both calipers but I’m unable to maintain pressure at the lever. The left caliper appears to be leaking a bit internally. I’ll let it sit and see how much it drips and maybe the o-rings will swell a bit and start working properly. Otherwise I’ll have to get new o-rings and rebuild. Hopefully they are not NLA.

[OldTZracer]

That's looking really nice!

If you decide the gold tach drive cap is a little too blingy, '86-90 Canadian RZs have electronic tachs & use Yamaha part# 90338-16029 plug to seal the tach drive hole. Its about $3...

[kpke]

Thanks OldTZracer. I looked that up but no pics. I wonder if it's like the one MikesXS sells? Looks like the threaded tach cable part just blocked off, no hole.

11/9/20
Yesterday still having troubles with getting pressure in the front brakes. The rear is holding up fine.

Here is a nice diagram of this type of MC.



I think the calipers are not leaking. There is no fluid dripping off after 2 days. Earlier that fluid was (more I think) a result of opening the bleed screw. I am getting bubbles coming up into the reservoir. www studies indicate this is a MC problem. Unfortunate because I used a Yamaha rebuild kit on this thing.







I’ve adjusted the lever adjust screw all the way in to get max throw to no avail. Removing the splash plate on the bottom shows the bubbles coming out of the tiny hole closest to the lever. Next I’m going to take the bike off the lift, put it on the side stand, turn the bars full left, hoping to get any high spot out of it. I don’t think this will help.

Then I suppose I’ll change out the MC/lever assy to a 2005 R6 one I have in stock.

Anyone know what to use to purge the DOT 4 out of the R6 MC before putting the DOT 5 in? Alcohol?


Edit: I’ve tried this trick a few times to get air bubbles to purge up. It has not helped.

[kobra]

Well that's your problem, your brake fluid is purple!

I have read that you should use denatured alcohol or 99.9% anhydrous isopropyl alcohol (no water). It is best to disassemble everything and wipe/blow out all the DOT4 too.

I was *this* close to using DOT5 and then read horror stories about improper conversions if not using a completely fresh brake system so... make sure you are thorough.

[75RD350rider]

I have used DOT5 in numerous bikes for at least 15 years and have never experienced a problem. The problem is not the fluid.